My 100% scientific analysis says gosh.
Wednesday, January 23rd, 2019 09:58 pmI went bouldering tonight after mostly hangboarding for, like, weeks, between the holidays and work travel and family obligations...and daaaaang ok the hangboard works. Even though I don't feel like I've been "working out" as such, or doing anything very hard (I hung it over the door to my laundry room about six months ago and I mostly just try to hang off it when I walk past it, which means a lot on laundry days/weekends and maybe two or three times a day on workdays).
Like, I finally stopped climbing because I had a leg cramp, not because my arms were noodly...and when I got downstairs to the locker room and looked at the clock I realized I'd been climbing for at least 90 minutes.
I used to be good for about 45 minutes to an hour before I got pooped. So that's...a noticeable difference. Like, really noticeable. My hands are a little tired but nothing bad.
Also I was getting my foot over my hip and shifting my weight up on it, which was just not happening for me last time I was there. Well, mostly. After a while that was where the leg cramp came in but hey.
Got up all the easy stuff (V0-V3), with one exception, and worked the beginning and end of a V4 problem but couldn't even see how to connect the two (when my best answer is "grow longer legs" there's obvs something I'm missing). I couldn't deal with one of the easy problems because it ended up next to the ceiling, and my hindbrain was busy going I don't care if it's a nice big hold you're something like twelve feet off the ground right now fuuuuuuuck thiiiiiiis and I was like shut up brain and my brain was like nooooo, that's not a thing I doooooo and I was like okay then you have to go in the cave and try that V4 and also the one where you have to palm that big round hold, lean back, and pick up the next one around the edge of the overhang, because this is ridiculous, brain.
In other words, I had fun.
Like, I finally stopped climbing because I had a leg cramp, not because my arms were noodly...and when I got downstairs to the locker room and looked at the clock I realized I'd been climbing for at least 90 minutes.
I used to be good for about 45 minutes to an hour before I got pooped. So that's...a noticeable difference. Like, really noticeable. My hands are a little tired but nothing bad.
Also I was getting my foot over my hip and shifting my weight up on it, which was just not happening for me last time I was there. Well, mostly. After a while that was where the leg cramp came in but hey.
Got up all the easy stuff (V0-V3), with one exception, and worked the beginning and end of a V4 problem but couldn't even see how to connect the two (when my best answer is "grow longer legs" there's obvs something I'm missing). I couldn't deal with one of the easy problems because it ended up next to the ceiling, and my hindbrain was busy going I don't care if it's a nice big hold you're something like twelve feet off the ground right now fuuuuuuuck thiiiiiiis and I was like shut up brain and my brain was like nooooo, that's not a thing I doooooo and I was like okay then you have to go in the cave and try that V4 and also the one where you have to palm that big round hold, lean back, and pick up the next one around the edge of the overhang, because this is ridiculous, brain.
In other words, I had fun.
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Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 06:34 am (UTC)I need to do more hanging on things. I have a bar in my kitchen doorway and NEVER remember to use it, it's embarrassing.
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Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 06:37 am (UTC)no subject
Date: Friday, January 25th, 2019 03:05 am (UTC)no subject
Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 07:19 am (UTC)no subject
Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 11:09 am (UTC)Often fixed above a doorway, or sometimes on a freestanding frame, e.g. if you are renting and can't go screwing things to walls.
Illustrations:
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/db/6a/f9/db6af9e68166c369681661cf58f87b7c.jpg
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/d4/61/62/d46162932a6b8c690ad6d16eeea7f308.jpg
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Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 06:07 pm (UTC)(Also my mom had one of those flat piano keyboard mock-ups you can practice fingering on without driving people crazy, only I can't find that on Google anywhere.)
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Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 08:23 am (UTC)W000t! \o/ And oooh you got a wooden one, nice (as you may know, they're much much easier on your skin, meaning you can save your skin for actual climbing). Which one did you get?
(when my best answer is "grow longer legs" there's obvs something I'm missing).
Sometimes the answer is "jump". Unfortunately for me, since I'm shit at anything involving even minimal jumping. I'm working on it.
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Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 04:18 pm (UTC)Yeah, this would be a big horizontal jump onto teeny holds (if it were a sliiiiightly bigger hold that's exactly what I would have done, and I think it would have worked). I was thinking this morning that maybe the answer is to get my right foot up on what my right hand was on and bring my hand higher on the wall, but then I'd be all spread out and the chances of going headfirst into the mat are higher than I really like.
ETA: This is the board, only mine's unfinished (whyyy would you varnish a hangboard, that's a terrible idea):
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Date: Friday, January 25th, 2019 08:39 am (UTC)Seriously omg.
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Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 08:28 am (UTC)no subject
Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 04:24 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: Friday, January 25th, 2019 02:19 am (UTC)But that's cool to hear, that a simple project resulted in such improvement. I'll mention it to friends.
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Date: Friday, January 25th, 2019 02:50 am (UTC)I can definitely feel today that I was moving in a way I don't do all the time yesterday...but that's a GOOD feeling!