sara: (terezi)
[personal profile] sara
I went bouldering tonight after mostly hangboarding for, like, weeks, between the holidays and work travel and family obligations...and daaaaang ok the hangboard works. Even though I don't feel like I've been "working out" as such, or doing anything very hard (I hung it over the door to my laundry room about six months ago and I mostly just try to hang off it when I walk past it, which means a lot on laundry days/weekends and maybe two or three times a day on workdays).

Like, I finally stopped climbing because I had a leg cramp, not because my arms were noodly...and when I got downstairs to the locker room and looked at the clock I realized I'd been climbing for at least 90 minutes.

I used to be good for about 45 minutes to an hour before I got pooped. So that's...a noticeable difference. Like, really noticeable. My hands are a little tired but nothing bad.

Also I was getting my foot over my hip and shifting my weight up on it, which was just not happening for me last time I was there. Well, mostly. After a while that was where the leg cramp came in but hey.

Got up all the easy stuff (V0-V3), with one exception, and worked the beginning and end of a V4 problem but couldn't even see how to connect the two (when my best answer is "grow longer legs" there's obvs something I'm missing). I couldn't deal with one of the easy problems because it ended up next to the ceiling, and my hindbrain was busy going I don't care if it's a nice big hold you're something like twelve feet off the ground right now fuuuuuuuck thiiiiiiis and I was like shut up brain and my brain was like nooooo, that's not a thing I doooooo and I was like okay then you have to go in the cave and try that V4 and also the one where you have to palm that big round hold, lean back, and pick up the next one around the edge of the overhang, because this is ridiculous, brain.

In other words, I had fun.

Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 06:34 am (UTC)
cofax7: climbing on an abbey wall  (Default)
From: [personal profile] cofax7
yay!

I need to do more hanging on things. I have a bar in my kitchen doorway and NEVER remember to use it, it's embarrassing.

Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 07:19 am (UTC)
kore: (Default)
From: [personal profile] kore
What is a hangboard?

Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 11:09 am (UTC)
rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
A.k.a. fingerboard. Climbing training thing made out of plastic or wood with assorted holds on it (usually edges of varying degrees of smallness, sometimes pockets, sometimes slopey edges). You dangle off it by your fingers to make them stronger.

Often fixed above a doorway, or sometimes on a freestanding frame, e.g. if you are renting and can't go screwing things to walls.

Illustrations:

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/db/6a/f9/db6af9e68166c369681661cf58f87b7c.jpg
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/d4/61/62/d46162932a6b8c690ad6d16eeea7f308.jpg

Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 06:07 pm (UTC)
kore: (Default)
From: [personal profile] kore
AHA, thank you. (I tried googling 'fingerboard' and got....miniature skateboards?)

(Also my mom had one of those flat piano keyboard mock-ups you can practice fingering on without driving people crazy, only I can't find that on Google anywhere.)

Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 08:23 am (UTC)
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
...and daaaaang ok the hangboard works.

W000t! \o/ And oooh you got a wooden one, nice (as you may know, they're much much easier on your skin, meaning you can save your skin for actual climbing). Which one did you get?

(when my best answer is "grow longer legs" there's obvs something I'm missing).

Sometimes the answer is "jump". Unfortunately for me, since I'm shit at anything involving even minimal jumping. I'm working on it.

Date: Friday, January 25th, 2019 08:39 am (UTC)
rydra_wong: Lee Miller photo showing two women wearing metal fire masks in England during WWII. (Default)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
whyyy would you varnish a hangboard, that's a terrible idea

Seriously omg.

Date: Thursday, January 24th, 2019 08:28 am (UTC)
sylvaine: Dark-haired person with black eyes & white pupils. (Default)
From: [personal profile] sylvaine
Heeeee that sounds like so much fun! And wow, the efficacy of the hangboard is impressive!

Date: Friday, January 25th, 2019 02:19 am (UTC)
randomdreams: riding up mini slickrock (Default)
From: [personal profile] randomdreams
Man, v4's make all my joints hurt so much, anymore.
But that's cool to hear, that a simple project resulted in such improvement. I'll mention it to friends.
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