Josephine Le Tutour and Marine Deleeuw, after Chanel, March 2013 photographed by Vanessa Jackman during PFW F/W 2013
The eyes are the windows to the soul.
Beauty at Ter et Bantine F/W 2014 at PFW
A Dozen Girls by Juergen Teller: Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton F/W 2014 at PFW
To celebrate Nicolas Ghesquière's return to fashion, Juergen Teller photographed twelve looks from Ghesquiere's first collection for Louis Vuitton at the brand's Paris headquarters. The series, A Dozen Girls, features models like Maggie Rizer, Liya Kebede, Mica Arganaraz, and Julia Hafstrom.
Given Juergen Teller's close relationship with Marc Jacobs, the choice of photographer is an interesting one. Hopefully, Ghesquière and Teller's collaboration signals a partnership for years to come. As the note attached to the lookbook says, A Dozen Girls celebrates the timeless quality of Louis Vuitton. With this note, we look into the future for the countless innovative collections from Ghesquière.
This familiar wardrobe appeals to the collective unconscious, stirring our affective memory. We never tire of these perennial pieces: they are faithful friends. Eternally under their alluring spell, we delight in wearing them time and again. A peppering of original designs shakes up the cozy coterie: these distincly modern, strikingly stylish newcomers open up the much-loved wardrobe to new pairings and a landscape of possibilities.
LOUIS VUITTON is a land of contrasts. A time-honored and noble legacy is kept alive by a yearning for discovery and exploration. Coursing boldly and imaginatevely through the decades, LOUIS VUITTON refreshes the world of fashion with an untiring ebb and flow of retrospective and fresh perspective.
Glorious smooth, full-grain leather is contrasted with hybrid materials. Bold, bright colors are juxtaposed with muted halftones. Hand-crafted artisanal techniques are updated with a high-tech twist.
This initial collection tells a tale of expertise made possible by innovative techniques. It focuses on the highlights and remains open to interpretation. Living proof that today's "timeless" was at one time seen as innovative. In this collection, the timeless is now.
Juergen's Dozen includes: Maggie Rizer, Mica Arganaraz, Daphne Simons, Julia Hafstrom, Milou Van Groesen, Amalie Schmidt, Linn Arvidsson, Rianne von Rompaey, Julia Jamin, Marte Mei Van Haaster, Liya Kebede, Kirstin Kragh Liljegren
The front row has never looked so good.
Adèle Exarchopoulos, Léa Seydoux, Margot Robbie, Rihanna, Lupita Nyong’o, Elizabeth Olsen, Bella Heathcote and Elle Fanning at Miu Miu F/W 2014 during PFW
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton F/W 2014 at PFW
After a year and half from his departure from Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière's return has been long anticipated. His debut collection for Louis Vuitton, which was presented this morning, was met with excitement, a feeling that Ghesquière himself shared. Guests were greeted with a typewritten note from the designer where he proclaimed his excitement in form of a personal message. Seen above, the note pays homage to Marc Jacob's contribution to the brand and to the Louis Vuitton "philosophy." Nicole Phelps noted, "few designers are as beloved, respected, or copied as Ghesquière." So, it is interesting to see Ghesquiere's interpretation of the label.
His first collection opened with model Freja Beha Erichsen clothed in a black leather coat and an LV trunk to match, paying homage to the brand's history as a luggage label. The rest of the pieces were understated, but carried a sense of excitement as a new role took over after fifteen years at the hands of Marc Jacobs. Contrary to Jacob's sets, which were often lavish, Ghesquière employed a traditional set letting the clothes speak for themselves - a wise move from a respected and extremely talented designer eager to share his personal vision of Louis Vuitton.
Text by Wild Thicket, photograph courtesy of Dazed Digital.
Above: Maggie Rizer at Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière F/W 2014 during PFW
Chanel F/W 2014 at PFW, Chanel Shopping Center
Every season, Chanel transforms the Grand Palais into a magical setting. Never one to disappoint, the exhibition hall was transformed into a high end-supermarket for the Fall/Winter 2014 presentation. In the past, sets have featured giant icebergs and underwater kingdoms, locations that were no less than perfect for Chanel. Shopping baskets were adorned with Chanel's famous chains and models pushed trollies around the supermaket as they perused the Chanel-branded food, such as Jambon Cambon, named after the location of the brand's orginal store. Chic guests including Anna Wintour, Rihanna, and Rita Ora celebrated the new collection alongside Chanel-clad models, which included newcomer Kendall Jenner and experienced supermodels like Joan Smalls.
Text by Wild Thicket, photographs courtesy of Style Bistro and Daily Mail.
Closing looks at Givenchy F/W 2014 at PFW worn by Mariacarla Boscono and Kendall Jenner
Olympia Le-Tan F/W 2014 at PFW
Olympia Le-Tan's Fall 2014/2015 presentation marked only the designer's fifth ready-to-wear collection. However, in such a small span of time, Olympia Le-Tan has made a name for herself in the fashion industry, one comprised of whimsical, kitschy charm with the help of her book clutches that have captured the heart of many as they blend fashion and literature into one.
In the past, she has delivered collections inspired by "Power, Corruption, and Lies," jazz and blues, The Sound of Music, and girls at sea. This time, Le-Tan was inspired by magic, the kind with playing cards, white bunnies pulled out of hats, black wands with white tips, and bow-ties. These elements were weaved seamlessly into the clothes, once again demonstrating Le-Tan's impeccable ability to create playful wardrobes. Models walked out of a magic hat and into the runway wearing skirts made to resemble playing cards, shirts decorated with spades, clubs, diamonds, and hearts, dresses with white doves, and of course, Oympia Le-Tan's staple and forte, clutches bearing the titles and covers of books. Magicdotes by Robert Orben was present in this season's collection, but the accessories also included bags resembling magic hats with bunny ears as handles.
Le-Tan no doubt has a talent for cutting fabrics and for translating fairy-tale ideas into a reality, but the danger with the designer is always the same - her clothes run the risky of being too costume-like. Magic is, well, magical, but its supernatural forces don't always work for good. Cleo Le-Tan, Olympia's sister, closed the show wearing a white bunny suit effectively encapsulating the idea that Olympia Le-Tan's clothes blur the line between costume and dress. Maybe we should all take a cue from Le-Tan and inject a bit of fun into our wardrobes in the same way.
Review by Wild Thicket, photographs courtesy of Now Fashion.