This article goes beyond the basic information a person picks up either by common knowledge or help from the pet store staff on your first visit after you’ve just adopted your new best friend. It doesn’t cover things like, do you need a harness (small dogs, yes!), how to potty-train, how to crate-train, and the importance of early socialization with other dogs and people. Instead, I highlight some of the things that a person might not initially think about that I’ve found has given me (and hopefully my humans) a greater sense of understanding, fulfillment and peace of mind during our journey through life together.
- How to read dog body language. A dog can’t really tell you what’s on her mind, so she uses other ways to communicate with you and other dogs. A tail wagging can mean different things based on situational context and other physical signals your dog may be sending. A stiff, slow wag of the tail can signal alertness, or warning. Are the ears pulled back and the eyes unblinking and tense? Is the rest of the body stiff? These could be signs of tension and warning. On the other hand, if her tail is wagging high and loosely from side to side and her mouth is open and panting, it’s usually a good, happy sign. If her tail is wagging low as if sweeping the floor between her legs, she could be showing her submissiveness which is on display to reduce anxiety or diffuse a new, uncertain situation.
- Good, nutritional food versus junk, filler food. Don’t buy that bag of kibble you find at every grocery store. Take a look at dogfoodadvisor.com to find a better quality food. Take some time and look for the ingredients on the label, as well as the percentage of protein vs carbohydrates and fat. Typically, all dog food is labelled with these percentages, along with moisture. Based on what your dog needs for his lifestyle, you may want a higher protein content food or a lower fat percentage food. Look for organic, all natural and human-grade ingredients. No corn and no soy. Look for food that is non-gmo and hormone-free. If you don’t have time to cook but have the budget, go for the cooked meals prepared by your local pet food specialty store, your pup will thank you. You can usually keep the meals in the freezer until ready to thaw and serve. Grain-free or not is really up to you – there are dogs that do fine with grains, and others who seem to do better without. Think twice before putting your dog on a “limited ingredient” food unless you know they’ve had bad reactions or allergies to certain ingredients. More ingredients means your dog can get a broader range of nutrients. It’s perfectly fine and encouraged to rotate out the protein that your dog is eating every once in a while. Not too often so that you’re constantly changing it, but enough that your dog gets some variety. A dog’s diet should be protein-based (a good amount of protein) and changing the protein again helps to provide your dog with different nutrients. Not all dogs can get used to eating raw food, and it is more work for humans to safely store and feed raw. There are risks involved with raw meat, so this would be something to discuss with your vet before going on a raw diet. Generally, I have found that the order of quality from high to low concerning dog foods is: raw, cooked, dehydrated, dry (kibble), canned.
- How a dog sees the world through her senses. A dog’s nose is the main way she sees the world. She can smell scents that humans can’t even detect, scents left from various animals and humans alike. She can smell things that have happened hours or even days ago. Her nose is the way she understands the world. You smell different than the neighbor, and she could probably tell you where the dog two buildings down likes to do his business. Scent marking is very important to dogs, not only as a means of expressing themselves and leaving a ‘Jazzy was here’ message, but also as a way of establishing their perimeter, so to speak. They are not just marking their territory for the sake of showing others – it could potentially also relieve stress and anxiety. A dog will use her nose, her own scent, and familiar smells to find her way home should she ever wander too far. So let your dog pee on that flower, let her smell that bush and that fire hydrant. Remember that when you go for a walk outdoors, it is the only time your dog is able to truly experience – to smell – new sensations. It’s one of the most stimulating things for your dog’s brain. Take your time, walk often, and smell the flowers.
- What to ask your vet when your dog is due for a visit. Not all vaccines are mandatory all the time. When you receive a notice that your pup is due for her vet visit, always ask if the vaccination or shot is mandatory. Some are strongly recommended, and other times you’ll find that it’s not necessary depending on who your dog interacts with and where you live. Rabies vaccination boosters, for example, don’t need to be administered every year. Bordatella or kennel cough vaccine isn’t necessary if your dog hardly ever interacts with other dogs. Even flea and heartworm preventatives may not be necessary during colder months of the year, depending on where you live. Always ask your vet if it’s necessary or the only solution, as too many unnecessary vaccines or medications can tax a dog’s immune system and create other health issues, especially in the long run.
- Bones. Those bones you see at the pet store? Not good for your dog, even though he may like chewing on them for hours. They are actually pretty bad for his health, especially since most of them are coated in a substance to preserve them and some with artificial flavors added. Plus, there are cases where a dog has been too fervent in his chewing and accidentally scratched up his snout and face with the ragged edges of large bones. Small, cooked bones are also a no-no. They can break and get lodged in a dog’s throat and intestines. If you do feed your dog bones, raw bones are better as they are softer than cooked bones, which are dry and brittle. But always supervise them when they are chewing, and get rid of bones that become too sharp and jagged.
- If you want your dog to have cleaner teeth, bones and chews are not really the answer. Brushing is! Start brushing his teeth early. This is one my human is guilty of neglecting too. Try to brush your dog’s teeth starting with just 10 or 20 seconds the first time, and praise him a lot while doing so. Do this every day for short amounts of time, gradually working up to longer and more thorough brushings. Start by wrapping a piece of gauze around your finger, and using your finger as the brush. Once your dog is comfortable with you finger-brushing all of his teeth, then you could try introducing a dog toothbrush (do not use a human toothbrush.) With the new toothbrush, you may have to start from square one until they are comfortable. It’s worth investing the time if it means healthier teeth and gums. Though it may be tedious and slow-going, think of it as another bonding experience that, though he may not be able to appreciate, at least you’ll know you’re actively taking steps that can improve his overall health.
- Not all table scraps are bad. Moderation, and which scraps, are key. There are foods that are deadly to dogs, such as onions, grapes, and chocolate. Always do a quick search online before you decide to give a dog human food. Carrots are good, apple pieces without the skin and without the core and seeds are ok, a small scoop of plain, non-fat, greek yogurt could be a nice, cool treat on a warm day. No salty food. Sugar is bad, but if naturally occurring like in vegetables or fruits, it’s ok only in moderation.
There’s a lot I didn’t cover. But now I am pooped from all the typing. Time to nap!
Disclaimer: I am not a veterinarian or a licensed nutritionist or a dog trainer. I am just a dog, and these are my learnings and opinions. My goal is to enlighten and entertain dog lovers.