rose, ring

Why we aren't going to Lisbon

This post is partly so that I can keep straight what happens for the massive complaint letter that is going to happen, partly so I don’t have to keep going over what happened, and a little bit so Dave and Serena know that not going to Lisbon wasn’t a decision we undertook lightly.
So, preface:
Tuesday night I came down with mild food poisoning and didn’t get any sleep.
Wednesday: packing for Lisbon and then to be away for Christmas with the in-laws.  Harder than it sounds with a baby and a dog.  The car was barely tetrissed. I barely touched food, so I was exhausted.  Every time I took Nicholas upstairs to change him, I had to stop at the top of the stairs to catch my breath. We drove down to Wigan where we would be dropping off the dog and getting an early lift to the airport on Thursday morning.  The rain was bouncing, except where the fog was so thick we couldn’t see the road, only the headlights of the car in front. And to make sure that the loaded luggage didn’t slide into the carseat, Chris had to drive extra extra careful.  It was tiring just watching the road.  It took 4 hours to get there, and Chris was exhausted.  And then we had to take the baby to see the ill aunt next door, fed the baby, ate a tiny bit of dinner... Normally, I go to bed about 9.30 when I’m not shattered, so I can grab a few hours sleep, while Chris cuddles the baby, in case he wakes up all night – it might be my only sleep: finally got to bed about 10.30.  Chris brings the baby up at midnight, so I get a little bit of sleep.  Luckily, after an hours feed, he sleeps through til the alarm.
5.40, the alarm went off.  Got up.  Fed baby.  Managed some toast.  Arrived at airport at 8.15.  People with babies get fast-tracked, so we were straight through check in and security (woot!).  Sat, drank tea.  The perfume and make-up ladies in duty free fussed over Nicholas.  Got on the flight.  Nicholas falls asleep. So far, so good. We may even get to catch up on some sleep on the plane.  We get to take off time (10.45)… we don’t move.  After about 20 minutes, the pilot announces that the truck that tows the plane hit the landing gear with the tow bar, and they need an engineer to certify the plane can fly. Only there isn’t one at Manchester currently. So we will all be disembarked, and they’ll give us some hospitality vouchers.  Nicholas wakes up hungry.  We try and distract him while we wait to be disembarked.  And wait.  And wait.  After 20 minutes, I start feeding him.  After another 15 or 20 minutes, we finally get off, waiting til last to give Nicholas as much time as possible: fortunately Nicholas is briefly satisfied.  There’s no-one outside the plane to direct us, but an old lady passenger who is sitting resting tells us that everyone went to the departure lounge.  No staff, no information, no vouchers.  Chris buys us a drink each and I finish feeding Nicholas.
At about 1.30, they announce that they have to fly in an engineer from Lisbon (!), and that someone will be there soon to deliver the promised vouchers.  A huge queue promptly forms, and since we can see it from where we’re sat, we stay put.  Nicholas is lying on cloth on a table in Burger King, between us, quite happy, watching us and the world, and we occasionally wave his tactile caterpillar to entertain him, passing Ticket to Ride between us on Chris’s tablet, and wishing we’d packed a charger.  While we play, my energy levels start to drop, manically.  I’m suddenly freezing, in a cardigan, 2 coats, and some heat packs in my clothes, and am shaking rather than shivering.  I know it’s lack of food and sleep, coupled with a previously upset stomach, and breastfeeding, and that I have to eat, but food really doesn’t appeal.  I get a hot chocolate and hope the sugar helps: I feel marginally better, but not much and I’m starting to want to cry, just because.  I start to realise there is no way I am capable of looking after my son, and that the thought of feeding him quite literally feels like he’s going to suck the life out of me (and there isn’t much of that). I go to get the vouchers – the room spins so badly when I stand up a member of staff tries to call a paramedic, but since I know what the problem is, I decline.
The vouchers cover a mighty £10 each. I check, and the man confirms it will cover a bottle so we can feed Nicholas.  Trying not to cry, I ask if I can get a blanket or if there is anywhere warm to wait as I don’t feel well at all, but he says (not particularly apologetically) that he can’t help unless I want to call the paramedics, which I don’t.  I realise I _need_ food, so Chris goes to buy a bottle and feed Nicholas.  The evil Boots woman refuses Chris a bottle on the voucher so a manager has to be called, who does approve it.  Chris feeds him, and I go up to the restaurant: the staff are amazing.  I nearly burst into tears again, and the lovely woman gets me some simple pasta in tomato sauce.  It arrived within 5 minutes, and she brought me a free cup of tea to try and get my temperature up.  I really didn’t want it: it was one of the hardest meals I’ve ever eaten.  I had to force every mouthful, and I managed maybe a little over a third of it, and half the tea, and some ibuprofen and paracetemol.  I’m still trying not to cry, but I am warmer.  Suddenly sweating buckets in fact, but I can still feel all my muscles ache.
By now, I’ve realised all I want to do is go home.  I’m so tired, I still don’t feel able to look after Nicholas, and sleep lost is not recoverable with a baby, but if I go back to Chris’s parents, they’ll help and I can sleep this off.  I’m starting to secretly hope the plane is cancelled and the flight is a good time tomorrow.  I go down to customer services and start asking what the options are to rebook, wondering if there is an option tomorrow.  The people in front of me are there forever, complaining.  I want to scream at them that I’m ill and can’t they complain later, but they don’t even look at me.  I finally get to the desk and I’m crying again.  Apparently the engineer will arrive at 5, and we should know by 5.15, but I’m not sure I care.  The man on the desk tries to call the airline to look at options, but it’s engaged.  He takes my boarding pass and suggests I talk to Chris and come back, while he tries to call.  Since Chris hasn’t eaten, he gets some Burger King and we discuss our options.  While he eats, I start cuddling Nicholas.  I don’t know if it’s the oxytocin, or what, but I start feeling a lot better.  I’m still not sure if I can fly: by now I’m realising that if we go, by the time we get there, I’ll have lost a large part of my evening’s sleep and Chris is starting to look frazzled.
I take Nicholas and go back to the desk to get my pass back and see what our options are – it’s unmanned so I ring the desk.  The man I spoke to has gone, but a woman says she has my pass and will bring it down.  She knows nothing about rebooking and will need to come and speak to me.  At this point it’s about 3.30.  I wait.  And wait.  I start chatting to the girl opposite me; Nicholas falls asleep.  Eventually I ask the girl to get Chris, and he joins us about 4.30.  By now I figure we may as well wait til 5.15 and find out about the status of the flight, but Chris is mad about how long I’ve been sat and starts calling the line.  Every time they pick up they hang up on him.  He’s determined and keep’s trying for at least 15 minutes. Eventually he talks to someone and they hang up mid-conversation.  After saying it was my fault I don’t have my pass back and I shouldn’t have given it to the member of staff who asked for it.  He goes back to dialling and being hung up on.  All the other passengers are starting to gather hopefully now too.  Chris is furious.  No-one comes to the desk.  5.15 passes.  Eventually 2 women appear at about 5.45 and the call goes out that the engineer has arrived, and the next announcement will be at 7.00.  They keep repeating this, clearly trying to disperse the increasingly frustrated passengers.  So at best an 11pm landing, maybe in bed by midnight, though then I would normally feed Nicholas for an hour.  Chris is trying to reason with one of the women, the Deputy Manager, who it turns out I spoke to on the phone.  She’s a bitch.  Turns out that, apparently, the bloke had no right to take my boarding pass and that not having it for the last few hours was my fault for giving it to him, that rebookings are not handled at this desk, so that hasn’t been looked into at all, and she never told me she would be right down: in fact, she said, she had some other things to do, so she knew she wouldn’t be down quickly.  She could have #####-well told me she wouldn’t be right down so I didn’t sit for an age.  She asks us what we want to do: to cancel or not.  I’m feeling better and I really want to go, but I also know I need sleep, and I could easily relapse.  I pause: she tells me to take a moment to decide and moves on to the next customer.  Chris is fed up, we’re both shattered, and I know that if we fly, at best, I’m going to get only a few hours sleep and there is no recovery with a baby to look after.  And that will write off Friday at least, and Monday is an even earlier trip home.  And there’s no guarantee that after a day this long, Nicholas is going to stay this good, surely our luck can’t hold… We decide to cut our losses – the flight will be refunded by the airline due to the delays - and go home for sleep and baby help.
The other woman at the desk is lovely, and agrees to get our bags, is apologetic for the fact that she will need to get staff to get them from the plane and they’re on another job, and that we will need escorts back through security, and is really attentive.  She even points out that it will be long enough that we can go and get coffee or whatever and they’ll call us over the announcer.  But we’re fed up so we just sit, and wait.  7.00 comes and goes.  About 7.10 the lady rushes back to us – the flight is about to be announced - it’s going.  Do we still want to fly? We’re so tired we just want to go home.  She smiles sympathetically and promises us our bags.  They announce the flight, boarding at 7.30.  Everyone gets so excited and practically runs to the gate.  Nicholas is awake again, but still good as gold.  We have a blessedly good baby, who’s been happy and easy all day, if a little heavy by now! At 7.20, the woman comes back, looking awful.  The flight isn’t running after all, it’s been cancelled, right after announcing it, as the flight staff have been on the clock so long they aren’t safe to fly. Everyone is going to be put up in hotels and all the luggage can be collected from arrivals. She knows she’s about to have hell that, since she was lovely, she doesn’t deserve. The Deputy Manager bitch is no-where to be seen. The new flight is going to be at 8.55am – I’d have to be up at 4.30… I can’t do it, not knowing I’ll have to be up every morning between 5 and 7 with Nicholas so I can’t lie in to recover.   My one last hope vanishes.  Lisbon is definitely not happening.
We’re all processed back through security, and collect our luggage. Nicholas does a poosplosion that necessitates a full change – our only problem with him all day (and thank goodness, as we only had one change of clothes, not being prepared for the length of wait), and then we’re out of arrivals and Chris’s dad collects us, just under 12 hours after we arrived.  Back in Wigan, his mum cooks me a piece of baked white fish and a small jacket potato – the first food I’ve actually wanted in 2 days, we bath Nicholas and I finally get to sleep.
So, plane broken due to airport staff error, 12 hours in the airport, £10 to cover the entire day, and appalling customer service.  We better get more than just the flight refunded…
rose, ring

Parliament and hand in

At some dim and distant far off point, in another time, in a galaxy far far away ... I might get time to do a proper write up.  But it's not this one.  However, there are some things I wanted to say about this one before it passes.

I didn't want to go.  The only days off I'd had since Christmas were the 2 days of the masquerade, where I got almost no sleep before or during.  In the weeks between the two, 10-12 hour days were standard.  In the week running up to it, 15 hours days were common, and that day I got up at 5.30 and was working by 6.  In the 9 days preceding it, I wrote 36 000 words, and edited a lot more.  But I handed it in.  I was *tired*.

So, firstly, this couldn't have been done at all without darkebon who is AMAZING, and nearly killed himself helping right before his first event, and didn't once even mention how nervous he was.  And I knew he was, I just didn't have time to do anything about it.  So he is extra amazing.  And fundessie who also did a lot of proof reading, and a *lot* of supporting, and my mum and stepdad, who did some more.   My first draft is in.  I have a hell of a lot still to do, but I may yet graduate this year [*].  But I kind of wanted to rest this weekend - still, I went, pretty much only to watch darkebon get crowned (which was cool).

It was probably one of the BEST events I've been to in a long time.  It was one of those events that reminds me why I love this hobby - I had so much fun.  Monsters.  Npcs.  Plot.  I love you all (except those of you I hate, who write mean poems :P ).
Thank you.

Particular thanks, however, go to [Bad username: Alan_wells�] [ok, third attempt, I cannot make the tag work ... but you know who you are!] for being amazing about a difficult issue, and to fundessie for making there be fizz (yay) and then listening to me witter until early o clock.  It was nice to be able to let all the things whirling round my brain out at last.  Thanks guys.  Seriously. It meant a lot.

[*] There a few bits out of my control, like when my examiners can actually meet, ad whether they like it, but assuming those bits are ok, I'll be ok.
rose, ring

In Flanders Fields

This has always been my favourite war poem
John McCrae, May 1915
In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.
Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.
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    grateful grateful
rose, ring

Unsung heroes - Mr Hana Aboud

Since I published that report, several people have gotten in touch with me to share more information about the situation.  One gentleman has been discussing the impact on the Christians of Homs in their ancient churches with me.  Today I received an email from him with some new information, and he said

"Two little things I came across which reminded me of your work. Two tweets from today (by a gov supporter) but I just though how you and a man like the one mentioned in the tweets are unsung heroes of Syrian heritage and culture, this poor man almost starved in Homs to protect his rare books."

Mr. Hana Aboud was taken out of Hamidya -Homs- today by the Red Crescent who found him starving

And part of my reply:
"It's kind of you to call me an unsung hero, but I have the luxury of working in a British academic environment.  I am not that poor gentleman, who must risk his life for the things he cares about.  I am safe: I have never seen a gun fired in fear or anger, or hatred, and I pray I never will.  I have an office, water, heating, and with my scholarship comes the privileged luxury of time to research.  I will not starve and I risk nothing by saying these things which need to be said, except perhaps visa denial in the future.  I believe those of us who have these luxuries can and should therefore put these blessings to good use."

I don't want someone jumping on here to tell me I'm awesome or something (yes, you know who you are).  This is a serious post about the things that pass unnoticed in war, about the things people care about...   I want to pay tribute to this old man, who nearly starved to death for the things he cared about.  Here's to you, Mr Aboud - history may not remember you, but here, now, we do.  I pray thanks you are safe, and I hope your books are too.
rose, ring

Archaeology Blog: Damage to the Soul

I volunteered to write a report on the known state of the heritage of Syria in the conflict for the Global Heritage Fund.  Given that even the little one with lots of pictures I wrote last year got picked up by two news reports, chances are someone will read it.  So I'm doing it properly with none of the mistakes of the previous one, and proper referencing and everything, and about a third of the way through I realised something.

I need to acknowledge the dead.  Yes, it's a report about heritage, and about conflict, and about site damage, but at their heart, all those things are about people.  You can't talk about site destruction, and not at least nod towards the massive loss of human life.  Strangely, this is not a view shared by all archaeologists, lots of whom want to separate out the two (somehow!), so saying this is also a position statement for my career.

So I stared for a while at the page, wondering how you even start something like that, how you address both the heritage issues, and the humanitarian issues, without trivialising either in the face of the other.  It feels like a massive responsibility, even if no-one reads the report.  I don't know if I'm over-reacting, but the word I want to use is "weighty".

This is what I came up with.  Report title, and preface.

Damage to the soul: Syria’s Cultural Heritage in Conflict

13 April 2012

“Damage to the heritage of the country is damage to the soul of its people and its identity”

Irina Bokova, Director-General of UNESCO[1]

As the focus of this report is the cultural heritage of Syria, the massive loss of human life during the conflict is not mentioned in the body of the report.  However, this heritage was built by the ancestors of those who have gone, and those who remain.  It is remembered by them, and cared for by them, to be passed on to their descendants and to the world.   History starts and ends with memory, and the past is carried in the shared memory of the present.  One cannot exist without the other.  I feel the only place to start this report is to express our deep sadness at the loss of life, our sympathy to those who have suffered, and extend our sincerest condolences to all those who have lost friends and loved ones.



[1] Bokova, UNESCO Media Services 30/03/2012 (accessed 13/04/2012) http://www.unesco.org/new/en/media…


[Also, the I / our thing is because at present I don't know if it's my report *to* the GHF, or my report *with* the GHF.  But I'm aware of it.]
rose, ring

In defence of St Pauls Cathedral

Many people will have seen this going round facebook a lot at the moment.  (It's the letter to the newspaper from the family who couldn't visit St Paul's because it's expensive, and accusing the Church of capitalism.)  I should start by saying that I feel sorry for the people who wanted to visit a great tourist attraction, and couldn't due to the price.  They only have my sympathy.  It's the same reason I can't go to Warwick Castle since it got taken over by Madam Tussauds.  I went a lot as a child when it was much cheaper, and it sucks.

However, I'm getting really sick of the people who thoughtlessly repost it to bitch against the church as if they are mercenary b*stards who are only in it for the money.  Yes, it costs a lot to visit, but very few people actually look into what it costs to run such places before they complain.

It costs around £7000 a month to run my parish church.  Our average income is about £5, 500.  You can do the math there.  We have what is considered an affluent parish, and we do our best to pay our own way and raise our parish share (which goes back to the Church (big C) ) so that the money the Church has can be put to supporting poorer parishes.  However, even we can see the effects of the recession, and the fact that it's a lot of money to raise each month.  It's hard, and we only have to support ourselves.  St Paul's might be in a very affluent area, but I doubt that they have a huge congregation, not being in a particularly residential area, and many people will go to their local parish church, not their local cathedral unless it's actually nearby.

Furthermore, like all Cathedral chapters, they have a lot of hidden costs.  I'm very familiar with Durham Cathedral, so I'm going to use it as an example.  It costs £60 000 a week to run the Cathedral, and they only ask for donations, but what most people don't realise is that the money covers a lot more than the Cathedral itself:

1995-2005 £1mill on repairing and maintaining (stone fabric, wiring, heating, etc) the buildings in the precincts.  
As  well as the cathedral, the chapter is responsible for 40 other Grade 1 and Grade 2 listed buildings / features (including Prebends *Bridge*, the Fulling Mill Museum building, *the weir* btw Fulling Mill and the Corn mill).  
The Cathedral owns and maintains about half the wooded riverbanks around the peninsula.  Cathedral staff clear litter, maintain paths and drains, prune the trees.  Btw 2003-5, it cost £50 000 to shore up the paths...  
The Choristers School is supported by the Cathedral.  
The Cathedral has world famous libraries and archives which require a lot of care.  
The Cathedral object collections are so important they are a part of the reason for its inscription as a World Heritage Site
They support an art program including stained windows, painting and sculpture.
 And that's before we start on the cathedral, the saint's shrines, the staff (I think I read there are about 100 staff and a ton of volunteers), the services (over 100 other organisations and institutions hold services in the cathedral each year which require support).  
As a World Heritage Site they are entitled to additional money, but also have great financial requirements. 

So St Paul's charges admission.  And yes, it's really expensive.  But it shouldn't be free just because it's a church.  You want to go see it as a tourist, pay up, like all the other tourist sites.  If you want to go to worship there, there are a list of services on the website.  They're free: pick one.  It's a church, that's what it's for.  I've seen it compared to the British Museum, which is free.  The British Museum has, as part of its core mission statement, that it hold its collections in trust for the world, and considers itself a universal museum, hence part of the reason it no longer charges.  This is St Paul's Mission Statement (I've added the bold):
  • "St Paul's Cathedral stands as a symbol and focus of the presence of God in the world and is served by a community of people who work and worship in this place. 
  • Founded in 604, we continue to share in the ministry of the Bishop and the Diocese of London and in the wider mission of the Church throughout the world.
  • In the 21st century we present a place of refreshment and encounter in which Church, City and nation meet to celebrate a common history and discern the kingdom of God within the new horizons of an international metropolis.
  • Using our diverse skills we cherish for future generations the inheritance of worship, scholarship, teaching, music making, art and architectural craft.
  • Valuing this inheritance we are committed to the cultural diversity, equal opportunities, and personal development of all who work here. 
  • We welcome all who visit this House of God."
See, it's about God, not how pretty the building is.  Not tourism.  Or Capitalism.  I think it's wonderful that most places of worship don't charge, but I don't blame the ones who do, as if they are somehow disadvantaging me, the visitor, by denying me my (dare I say it) God-given right to visit these places.  

Incidentally their annual report and financial accounts are all online.  I bet not one person who reposted that article about capitalism bothered to actually read them before taking their chance to have a go at the Church.  It's easy to repost something.  It's much harder to think about it first.

Ok, opinionated, slightly offensive rant over.  Normal service will now resume.
rose, ring

Um....

Is anyone else having trouble wth new livejournal?  It's arbitrarily changing names of LJ users round in my posts (which is embarassing when you try to thank people.  Alan, Jenny and Dessie are all confused in my gathering post, and whenever I insert an LJ user, it moves the cut text marker to that point, and deletes whatever I had instead of "read more".

Anyone else got this, and how do I stop it?  It's annoying!