To get paid in Germany you need a tax number.
To get a tax number you have to register with City Hall
* in your city.
To do that registration, City Hall wants proof you live in the area. In Berlin the latest rule is that you have to show up with a form signed by the home owner or representative**. The city knows who owns dwellings, BTW, so sublets will only do if the hone-owner signs.
To rent a home, you have to convince landlords you will be a good tenant, because protections are fierce here for tenants. Home-ownership is not as much a mark of middle-class success as it is in the USA or UK or NL, especially in large cities. Landlords have to announce in the contract how they will raise the rent during the tenancy, like 5% each year or inflation-indexed. Landlords try to set a limit to contracts like a decade since contracts are not renewed (or not) at the end of the year. Decades of tenancy are not exceptions to the point that it is normal here for a rental to not have kitchen-furniture or appliances and for tenants to bring their own, and for the tenant to remodel the bathroom.
Required documentation: a credit check, proof of having no previous rental debt, last three paychecks, copy of passport.
To get a credit check you really need a German bank account.***
To get a German bank account you generally need to be registered or at the very least have a regular address with your name on the mailbox*****. Can not be a PO box, and to open a PO box Deutsche Post wants proof you live in Germany anyway in which case you do not need etc.
There is one exception, and all expat blogs share it: N26, a newer, totally online bank. They are the only bank whose address form has a line that allows a user to enter a "care of" ("bei") addition to an address. N26 knows solving this problem is where a market is for them.
And this whole story is why I stayed in AirBnBs for 5 months looking for a job and did not think of housing until I had the job, because it was very unlikely I could scale these hurdles for decent apartments without the documentation. I could have tried for the roommates circuit, which is enormous here, but that would still just give me housing and not the tax number. Instead, I attacked the paperwork issue one item at a time:
- My break-out of the maddening bank/credit cycle was to ask a local friend if I could open an N26 account at their address. So I had a bank account, so I could do a credit check.
- Once I had the job and signed the contract, I asked my employer if I could get a proof of employment for rental purposes instead of having to copy my contract. The HR person knew exactly what I needed and typed it up. Key concepts: permanent, of unlimited length, and yearly salary. This would have to do as my proof of salary, even though it was not the required 3 months of payslips.
- Copy of my passport.
- Written reference from my UK landlord which I had a friend, who translates for a living, translate to German.
Uploaded the whole bundle to the rentals website, it has slots on the profile for it, so that when you see rentals you like, you can send the whole bundle with your approach email. If the rental agent likes what they see, they may ask you to come by to the a viewing, and it is always a group thing. In fact, on most ads, they just announce the time for the viewing and ask you not to contact prior but to bring your bundle of papers including a filled-in copy of an application form they attact to the listing on the web.
It's all very New York, or San Francisco, and fortunately I had a week's time for this hunt before work started, after the craziness that is Berlin Gay Party Easter here and visiting my family as well.
One friend said the average hunt takes 6 weeks. I can not just stay in AirBnBs and not register, as my employer can legally only pay me for three months without a real tax number, so this had to happen. Hunting for a home while in a new job sucks; I had to get good at it in just one week so that the rest could go with less effort. I did hear of someone getting the form for registration signed by the AirBnB host, but again, exception.
On advice of my friends I added to my bundle print-outs of my bank accounts to show solvency*****. Legally, you can't throw money like I did when I landed in the UK by offering to pay 6 months in advance, plus, as said, 6 months is nothing in a tenancy here.
I go to my first viewing and count, I shit you not, 100 to 150 people there to view. I start talking to this woman with a dog, she is on viewing number 40. I freak. She also tells me what forms I am missing, and I get more tips. Her dog is awesome, he's meeting all these new people! I see her bundle has a cover letter introducing her and her partner and her dog. I see other bundles, they are thick and well-documented. I stand in a line that goes down two floors of staircases and snakes through the apartment back to the realtor who is taking bundles. Young, bright people let go of the forms they are clutching, neatly bound, faces full of anxious hope that their curated documentation of their lives will do the trick to get this reasonably-priced apartment. I'm overwhelmed by the amount of people still on the staircase when I decide to leave.
Yet I hang around a little on that staircase, and listen to the realtor. Someone must have asked her if they stood a chance because she is saying "Oh when I go through these stacks half of them will not have the required documents". I observe her hands, what she is doing with what people hand her, listen to her tone of voice, where her eyes go, what she is looking for. I use my skills as a UX designer to step into her world and thought process. The realtor always removes the binding or the folder from stacks handed to her, and hands it back, just keeping the papers.She scans every stack for specific items. I then realize the cover letters and pictures of dogs just get in the way of her work; she doesn't care, she won't remember you better for them. She wants proof you can afford this and are reliable, as expressed in the German documents, and that is it. (Researching realtors some more later I will overhear how they do not make decisions, the landlord does, the realtors just filter and I bet the filter all fluff out.) I go home, worried but determined to get my documents in better shape. No fluff, though. Facts.
My translator / teacher friend, themselves immigrant from the US, reminds me that I work for a very solid employer (scientific publishing) and indeed make enough to hit the target of at net least 3 times the rent--yes, many landlords insist the household will not spend more than the guideline of 30% on housing costs--and my passport shows I am from a country considered solid, if not also that I am a white male. I have a lot of privilege here over all the immigrants I hear in line, all coming to Berlin for better, slower, sexier, more interesting lives that they cobble together with gigs here and small jobs there--but that won't make landlords think highly of them as they face having them for the next ten years and evictions being a pain and renters depressing the value of the home during a sale. Me, I write down "Web Designer" and a salary, and on advice, include printouts of my bank accounts to prove the solvency my lack of three German payslips so far leaves open.
I make a Google Drive spreadsheet of which ads I have written to, which answer back, when the viewing times are, and then notes about the viewing afterwards. I use Google Drive so I can update on the go on my phone after a every viewing. I notice that the listing gets taken down very fast, sometimes even before the viewing, as realtors feel secure enough people will show anyway from just advertising briefly. My query on the site is active to send me push notifications of every new entry, at least 5 a day, and my 4 months previously living in various parts of Berlin truly helps making quick decisions.
I find the copy shop in my neighborhood and bring my USB stick with my forms to print out, especially the application forms I filled in and signed in Preview on my Mac so they don't have to decipher my handwriting. The copy shop feels like something from the 90s, old copiers, two Windows 10 boxes attached to printers, a few cents per page gets charged afterwards at the counter where I can also buy little plastic translucent folders to put my facts-only bundles in, and then into my bag they go, ready to hand out. At every viewing I now try to be in first, exchange some words with the agent, hand over my documents in their folder with the application visible through on top. In between viewings I scope neighborhoods for the next viewing, and think of all the times before that I did this: trying to find a room in Amsterdam by going to all these agencies and student groups, so many of them useless, reading ads in the Boston newspaper and just calling an agent for something that seemed good which is why I ended up in Park Drive on the first outing, the viewings with an actual realtor that did actual work for us once we decided to become homeowners, Disney arranging a coordinator for me that made multiple realtors with appointments and being driven around happen in LA, every step easier and more taken care of. And then when I chucked the career in the US to start over in the UK, it's back to being alone and scrambling, dealing with the smooth-talking assholes in the UK showing me decrepit flats at outrageous prices; the one I ended up over time turned out be a bargain ten years later for barely raising the rent, such that I was the next-to-last of my friends to still live in central London. And now here I was doing cattle calls and nervously hanging out in front of a building, sizing up how many other people are showing up, making bundles of forms like nothing changed in thirty years instead.
It's a warm week and many are in different parts of town, and most are 4 or 5-floor walk-ups. I get very tired. I dream about decorating some of the quirky apartments I see, I try to stop myself because I will know I will be so disappointed when I do not get them.
And yet still, I would not say Berlin is in a housing crisis, though it thinks it is. I say that because while far more people want flats than are available, in the ten viewings I went to in that first week of homes in decent locations for high but not ridiculous prices, 8 were good stock. Like, truly respectable, will be warm in winter, good floors, even and painted walls, new bathrooms. But always so many people waiting... I changed my profile that gets sent on first contact to emphasize I was single, I was 47 and responsible, I had no pets nor musical instruments.
But Monday rolled around and work had to start so no more daytime viewings or much browsing and prep for me. I had to work now. I had a viewing moved to 9, another to 6 PM. As scared as I was that this might never happen, it was all I knew how to do, as I was also mapping out what next steps I could take every week to raise my profile or find other avenues. Fortunately I had no demands for my first rental which, after ten years in a tiny flat in London, could not be met by a solid Berlin apartment with wooden or laminate floors.
And then Tuesday I get this call: it's an agent for one of the apartments . Am I still interested? My German version of Hell Yes! makes her almost giggle, I can tell. They need first month, deposits, fees, and it sounds like they won't take my bank cards. I raid an ATM for cash with my N26 and Revolut cards: in a country that so mistrusts credit that many restaurants can not handle card payments, the cash machines have absurdly high limits. I go to the agency at the appointed time. I sign. I count out cash, dozen and change of 50 euro bills--and I now legally will get to live in an apartment, 5th floor walk-up, in a cute neighborhood (Rixdorf) for at least a year, for which I will have to furnish a kitchen, starting May 2nd. Yeah I won't be able to turn that move around in a day, so I extend my current AirBnB so I will overlap a whole month. Yes, my search only took a week and a half, but that I got it was sheer luck: the agent told me she called me when the previous person in her stack had not picked up. Luck of the draw means this could have taken forever.
So: two main anxieties gone. I relax. Work is nice, I like my assignments, lovely starts. I now have housing. I can schedule a registration, get a tax number. I can do this. The whole week has been warm, dry, sunny Spring weather. The whole continent, but especially this city and I, are coming out of a cold gray winter. My current neighborhood in Kreuzberg is delightful with its wide sidewalks that restaurants put their tables and chairs on in the evening; everyone eats outside. Many quirky places too, one stupidly overpriced coffee-shop I want to deride for being staffed only by English-native hipsters but alas, like Yelp said, their cheesecake really is the best ever. Public transport gets me to work and back in 40 minutes, and I always get seats and nobody is pressed in my armpit like on the London Northern Line. Work is moving buildings now, and from my new place it will be even quicker and the building is next to a gym in my chain, and an IKEA.
I need more friends, and I have a ton of work to do still to get my furniture and new appliances up those 5 flights of stairs, and close out the London apartment, but for now I am actually really content.
*Close enough.
**Wohnunggeberbestätigung, I kid you not. "House giver confirmation".
*** The Credit Reporting company says that if you do not have a German bank account, you should call, so maybe something can be done for foreigners there.
**** With the ways dwellings are structured here, you can not specify an apartment like "second floor" or "#45"; your name has to be on the mailbox and doorbell or the post will not deliver.
*****Friends have told me they met private landlords who would take just the bank prints as proof, even without a work contract, that my friends would be good tenants, and got housing that way. I have no personal experience with that.