MILAN — The Demna era at Gucci has officially begun.
The designer unveiled his first designs for the Italian luxury house on Monday, with the surprise release of a 37-outfit — plus a trunk — look book photographed by Catherine Opie, ahead of the short film “The Tiger” shown on Tuesday evening in Milan, directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn.
Aimed at telegraphing the “Gucciness” of Gucci, Demna created a series of characters who are part of “La Famiglia,” each with their own personality and attitude, as he revealed in his first exclusive interview as artistic director of Gucci to WWD.
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WWD pooled the first reactions from fashion historians, vintage connoisseurs and talent scouts. Here’s what they had to say.
Pamela Golbin, curator, author and fashion historian
With his début Gucci collection, Demna had a clear agenda: steady the business, reassert creative dominance and renew the house’s storytelling while revisiting heritage signatures. He delivered on all fronts with brio. Missions accomplished. Demna begins by reimagining the brand as a family: “Gucci La Famiglia.” In doing so, Demna crafts a dynamic and expansive narrative to embody and personify the “Gucciness of Gucci.” Presented as a look book, this first collection is photographed by Catherine Opie as family portraits of an extended tribe, framed in their identities and united by a shared aesthetic language. In perfect alignment with Gucci’s origins, the story begins with “L’Archetipo” a monogramed travel trunk that highlight’s the house’s roots as a valigeria. It continues with a cast of characters, a perfect lineup, each embodying one of the 37 personas of Demna’s Gucci family. From La Contessa, La Diva, Drama Queen and Flora to Partyboy, Androgino, Narcista and Introverso, each wears their silhouettes with the signature ease and casual grandeur of the Gucci house. At Balenciaga, Demna put Cristobal in the center of the conversation. Now, at Gucci, he has created an entire family. To “Gucci La Famiglia.”
Barbara Franchin, president of Fondazione ITS and founder of ITS Contest and ITS Arcademy
I have always loved Demna’s storytelling ability, and this idea of a Gucci “family” is a clear representation of that, with a touch of irony and retro sexiness filtered through a more instinctive, emotional approach. If you go past the archive tribute, there are strong shoulders, dramatic silhouettes, clashing fabrics and that overarching idea Demna masters: Fashion isn’t here only to please us, it’s here to move us, to make us question the world and see it from another perspective. Some of these looks are easy, others make you uncomfortable. We’re not yet witnessing the revolution, but it is as if Demna is inviting us to take notes and find the evidence of things to come. Don’t be fooled, there is intention. What strikes me is the designer Demna is today. My eyes still see that twentysomething talent who arrived at ITS Contest in 2004 and won Collection of the Year. I see that intensity, that poetry, a romantic soul looking at the world. Yet now, after years of conceptual provocation and technical growth, one can tell he wants to make clothes that feel good in real life — pieces that carry emotion, pleasure, surprise. It’s a new direction for him, not just for Gucci. It is never just about fashion with Demna. That’s why, for me, it’s a 10.
Christos Garkinos, chief executive officer and founder of Covet by Christos
Overall, I liked what I saw — but I think this is more a teaser of Demna’s future at Gucci than a definitive statement of direction. The references are clear: Tom Ford, Alessandro [Michele] and, of course, his own Balenciaga DNA. There’s something here for everyone, which is exactly the point of a first outing. What I’ll be watching closely is which of these “characters” he chooses to elevate in the seasons ahead, and how he defines a new Gucci narrative from them. Personally, I loved the 1960s touches — look 2 is a standout — and there’s no question stylists are already vying for that star black gown for their clients. Smartly, Demna hasn’t overplayed his hand. By keeping the field wide open, he ensures that the audience is left wanting more. And in fashion, that’s the best first move you can make.
Alexandra Van Houtte, founder and CEO of Tagwalk
When analyzing the data, we have keywords from this collection that spring out from three different designers and Gucci eras: Tom Ford, [with] lots of black croc, sexy, etc.; Alessandro Michele [with] floral, long dresses with feathers, and Demna’s world, which is a little more “cultural” — about attitude, not just about style and something bigger than a fashion moment — with the sequins, the short faux fur coats. Essentially, Demna’s touch is so predominant in this first drop, not only in the styling, attitudes but also with the different personas depicted in each picture. He’s developed these Gucci facets and brought to life characters within the brands history and DNA.
The Tagwalk data
Within a two-hour time frame after the images went live on Tagwalk, the most viewed looks on the Paris-based fashion search engine that has more than 350,000 users were the fur coat with a chevron motif in its pile dubbed “Milanesa”; the blue double-breasted shearling coat with mutton-leg sleeves named “Sciura,” and the black “Gallerista” suit with a pussy-bow leopard blouse.
Looking at the picture after 24 hours, “Milanesa” and “Sciura” remained in the lead for womenswear, while the look titled “La Bomba” with the tiger motif took the third spot.
The top three keywords that were most applied on the collection were black, eveningwear and high-necked.
In menswear, “Nerd,” “Narcisista” and “Introverso” were the most viewed silhouettes on Tagwalk.