Abstract

The attention that prominent fashion houses have been paying to climate change and environmental concerns has never been so prominent. Fashion week of 2019 and 2020 made such a concern a staple of the fashion discourse. Designers and fashion houses are exploring fabric alternatives such as Piñatex (derived from discarded pineapple skins), they are advertising their runways as “carbon neutral,” and fashion colossuses such as Burberry, Gap, Levi’s, and H&M are vowing to reduce greenhouse gas emission by 30% by 2030. However, the genuine nature of such intentions is not impermeable to criticism. While “sustainable fashion” – arguably the “it” vocabulary choice of the past couple of years – certainly has its praiseworthy sides, it is also, at times, another strategy to spike consumerism. In this chapter, I aim to investigate the viability of fashion’s current interest in environmental concerns in light of an analysis of fashion’s most indisputably prominent side: its relation to the aesthetic realm. Playing along the lines of the analytic debate gauging the relative impact of ethical values over aesthetic values and vice versa, I will consider how aesthetic demands can be steered by the necessity of ethical reflection without for this reason erasing, or at least hiding, the appreciation of style, glamour, and couture. I will conclude with a reassessment and potential solution, based on the inherently performative side of fashion, to the question of whether sustainable fashion can be seen as a current, viable, and potentially effective way of responding to contemporary environmental concerns.