Cordoba, Spain

Cordoba is located on the Guadilquiver River (that runs through Seville as well (and up near where we went hiking after Cordoba). We were in the Youth Hostel in the Old Part of town. Aka. Tourist Central. It was the most toursity place we were in the whole time. Just really overwhelming and horrible at times, including beggars (women who kept asking for money for their babies they were carrying and would follow you down the street).

But the place itself was absolutely gorgeous. Centreed around the Mezquita-Catedral (Mosque-Cathedral), and lots of whitewashed winding streets off from it.

We had delicious tapas one night. Small plates of food you have with drinks. We had chorizo sausage cooked in a red wine sauce. And my favourite was little lightly battered pieces of Aubergine with this really deep rich honey based sauce. SOOO good.

Random Cordoba facts:
- Cordoba is the only provincal capital in Spain where the city government is controlled by the COmmunist Party of Spain
- The streets are full of flowers in pots in all the verandas. There is a city wide competition yearly for hte most beautiful.
- Seneca is from Cordoba
- Colombus got permission to travel tothe New World at the Alcazar de los Reinos Christianos (Castle of the Christian Rulers) (which I'll show you below).

Cordoba is now the capital of the Province of Cordoba, but in the 10th Century it was estimated to be the biggest city in the world. It was the base for the Caliph of Cordoba who governed most of the Iberian peninsula. It has the largest Mosque outside the contemporary Muslim world. ANd it is VERY distinctive. You can tell where each successive ruler added a bit, because the ceiling changes, even though the arches don't (you can see this in one of the pictures coming up). When Cordoba was reconquered by the Christians (during the Reconquista in 1236  I think) they built a Cathedral in the Mosque.

(What annoyed me about this absoutely stunning place is that there were ABSOLUTELY MASSIVE signs all along the entrance about no phones, no loud noise and NO FLASH. Yet. People are complete idiots clearly. With flashes going off. I was so glare-y. Pete told me I was justified, but to not let it ruin it.... it was SO beautiful)

Wikipedia Mezquita Info


(you can see the different ceilings in this one)


Dark and Mysterious and gorgeous


A newer part. The light is different in different parts




The Cathedral bit in the middle of it. Lavish, and over the top, and somehow offensive with the simplicity of the rest of it.

There were little alcoves full of saint s all the way around. And a museumy section where there were lots of blocks of stone, with different carvings from different periods of the cathedral, and from excavations below it of what they think is a Roman or something temple.


Outside in the courtyard, you can see people through the trees waiting to go in. The bell tower was visible from our bathroom window, and rang the hours.

The Alcazar de los Reinos Christianos was beautiful. In a non-uber-Moorish way, especially after the grandeur of Granada and Seville. But still beautiful. They had put up lots of Roman mosaics in one room from around Cordoba which were really impressive too. The courtyard garden was very Moorish, but the big garden was very Christian - era landscaped. There were Roman-esque Bath Rooms below as well. And a cool tower which over looks the coutyard outside the Castle complex which they hung people from during the Inquisition! All the towers were different. It looked really intriguing. THats what happens with all these really old buildings, they are built in stages, and its really clear where a new bit has been added.


Inner courtyard, there is no water in the fountain, they were cleaning it. They rock in the front is part of the ruined end of the castle courtyard with exposed walls


From the Formal Gardens looking back at the tower (still inside the compound)


The very Non-Moorish Fountain and gardens. STill very pretty - and influenced - you can see the channel in the front of this picture.

 
Monument in the gardens to the fact that Isabella of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon gave Columbus permission to travel to the Indies here in Cordoba.

Cordoba was really beautiful. There was a Roman Bridge as well. Very impressive, but covered in scaffolding as they worked on it. There were also a chain of Mills across the river on islands. which are now all overgrown and full of bird song.

It was really beautiful there! Too touristy though. We had our ickiest weather there too. The day we arrived was a dust storm, and thee next two were spot rain.

Cordoba was very impressive. But we were looking forward to getting out back into the countryside again.

Off to Cazorla!!!