Cunningly Jayne
SO. For those of us who can't knit and want to make a crocheted Jayne hat, I have created a pattern. Huzzah!
sc: Single Chain
dc: Double Chain
st/sts: Stitch/Stitches
hdc: Half Double Chain
- yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and draw loop through, yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook.
fpdc: Front Post Double Chain
- just like a double chain, except instead of inserting the hook into the stitch, you insert the hook behind the whole post.
bpdc: Back Post Double Chain
- just like a front post double chain, except instead of inserting the hook around the front of the post, you insert it around the back of the post.
blsc: Back Loop Single Chain
- just like a single chain, except instead of inserting the hook through the entire stitch, you only insert the hook through the back loop, which creates an edge on the opposite side with the front loop.
Magic Adjustable Ring: http://crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html
Using a K or larger hook. I used a K and it's aaaaalmost too small. I'ma do it again in an N hook and it'll probably be much larger and snugglier. While most of the stitches used are the more advanced ones, the pattern itself is not particularly difficult. I'd call this an intermediate.
In orange:
R1: In a magic adjustable ring, sc 56. Pull out the circle so it's one long sc with a tail at the end, instead of a circle. Ch 3. [59 sts.] (If 56 sts around, when joined, isn't large enough to fit comfortably/snugly around your head, add stitches in increments of 7 [56 stitches, 63 stitches, 70 stitches, etc.].)
R2: Loop around so instead of starting a new row, you're crocheting on the bottom of each of those sc you just did. Hdc on the bottom of each previous sc. Join to the first hdc in a circle, making certain you don't have a mobius strip. There will be an obvious V here from where the first row isn't joined, as well as the tail, but that'll get sewed up at the end. For now, leave it be/use it as a marker for the beginning of your rounds/back of the hat. [56 sts.]
R3: Ch 1. Hdc in each hdc. [56 sts.]
R4-R5: Do not join, but work in rounds. Hdc in each hdc. [56 sts in each row.] This should make roughly one inch of orange.
R6: Blsc in each hdc. [56 sts]
R7: Fpdc in each blsc. This emulates a knit stockinette stitch, from a distance, and creates a wonderfully thick, horizontal ribbing to help thicken up the hat. The horizontal ribs should be on the inside of the hat. [56 sts]
R8-R11: Fpdc in each fpdc. Combined with the previous rows, this should make another inch of orange, making for ~2 inches. This section should take up ~1 oz orange yarn.
In yellow:
Adding in the yellow: Cut off the orange yarn, leaving a tail of about 5 inches, and switch to the yellow instead. This can be done by either tying off the orange and tying in the yellow, adding in the yellow and crocheting over orange, weaving in the ends, whichever you prefer.
R12-R17: Fpdc in each fpdc. [56 sts in each row.] This should make roughly ~2 inches of yellow.
R18: Fpdc in each fpdc. Add a marker every 8 stitches; in the end, you should have 7 markers in the hat.
R19: Fpdc in the next 6 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. Repeat 6 more times, removing the markers as you go. [49 sts]
R20: Fpdc in the next 6 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. *Fpdc in the next 5 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc.* Repeat * 6 more times. [42 sts]
R21: Fpdc in the next 5 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. *Fpdc in the next 4 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc.* Repeat * 6 more times. [35 sts]
R22: Fpdc in the next 4 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. *Fpdc in the next 3 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc.* Repeat * 6 more times. [28 sts]
R23: Fpdc in the next 3 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. *Fpdc in the next 2 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc.* Repeat * 6 more times. [21 sts]
R24: Fpdc in the next 2 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. *Fpdc in the next fpdc, then decrease an fpdc.* Repeat * 6 more times. [14 sts]
R25: Fpdc in the next fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. Decrease an fpdc 7 more times. [7 sts]
R26: Sc in each fpdc. [7 sts] Cut off the yellow yarn, leaving a tail of about 5 inches, and tie off. Pull the tail inside the hat. This section should take up ~1 oz of yellow yarn.
For the earflaps, in red:
First, determine the width of the ear flaps. Lay the hat flat, folded along the back seam (where the V from first attaching the rows on Row 2). Each half of the hat should be 28 sts wide. Mark the middle (sts 14 and 15), then count seven sts in each direction so you have a strip 14 sts wide (sts 8-21). Do this on both sides. Follow these instructions for one earflap, and then repeat for the other earflap.
R1: Sc in the strip of 14 sts marked out. [14 sts]
R2: Ch 1. Dc in each sc. [14 sts]
R3: Ch 1. Bpdc in each dc. [14 sts] Make certain the horizontal ribbing is on the inside of the hat, not the outside. (If you find you need to fpdc instead of bpdc to keep the horizontal ribbing on the inside, just switch the rest of the instructions.)
R4: Ch 1. Fpdc in each bpdc. [14 sts] Make certain the horizontal ribbing is on the inside of the hat, not the outside. (if you find you need to bpdc instead of fpdc to keep the horizontal ribbing on the inside, just switch the rest of the instructions.)
R5: Rpt R3. [14 sts]
R6: Rpt R4. [14 sts]
R7: Rpt R3. [14 sts]
R8: Ch 1. Decrease an fpdc, fpdc in the next 8 bpdc, decrease an fpdc, fpdc once. [12 sts]
R9: Ch 1. Decrease a bpdc, bpdc in the next 6 fpdc, decrease a bpdc, bpdc once. [10 sts]
R10: Ch 1. Decrease an fpdc, fpdc in the next 4 bpdc, decrease an fpdc, fpdc once. [8 sts]
R11: Ch 1. Decrease a bpdc, bpdc in the next 2 fpdc, decrease a bpdc, bpdc once. [6 sts]
R12: Ch 1. Decrease an fpdc twice, fpdc once. [4 sts]
R13: Ch 1. Decrease a bpdc once, bpdc once. [2 sts]
R14: Ch 1. Fpdc once, tie off and leave the tail dangling. You can add extra tails, or a cord for extra shiny. This section should take up another ~1 oz of red yarn.
Create a pom-pom (one of many instructions) of one or all three colors, and pull the attaching yarn inside the hat, in the same spot you pulled in the yellow yarn. Tie the pompom tie and the yellow yarn tightly together inside the hat and weave in the ends.
sc: Single Chain
dc: Double Chain
st/sts: Stitch/Stitches
hdc: Half Double Chain
- yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and draw loop through, yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook.
fpdc: Front Post Double Chain
- just like a double chain, except instead of inserting the hook into the stitch, you insert the hook behind the whole post.
bpdc: Back Post Double Chain
- just like a front post double chain, except instead of inserting the hook around the front of the post, you insert it around the back of the post.
blsc: Back Loop Single Chain
- just like a single chain, except instead of inserting the hook through the entire stitch, you only insert the hook through the back loop, which creates an edge on the opposite side with the front loop.
Magic Adjustable Ring: http://crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html
Using a K or larger hook. I used a K and it's aaaaalmost too small. I'ma do it again in an N hook and it'll probably be much larger and snugglier. While most of the stitches used are the more advanced ones, the pattern itself is not particularly difficult. I'd call this an intermediate.
In orange:
R1: In a magic adjustable ring, sc 56. Pull out the circle so it's one long sc with a tail at the end, instead of a circle. Ch 3. [59 sts.] (If 56 sts around, when joined, isn't large enough to fit comfortably/snugly around your head, add stitches in increments of 7 [56 stitches, 63 stitches, 70 stitches, etc.].)
R2: Loop around so instead of starting a new row, you're crocheting on the bottom of each of those sc you just did. Hdc on the bottom of each previous sc. Join to the first hdc in a circle, making certain you don't have a mobius strip. There will be an obvious V here from where the first row isn't joined, as well as the tail, but that'll get sewed up at the end. For now, leave it be/use it as a marker for the beginning of your rounds/back of the hat. [56 sts.]
R3: Ch 1. Hdc in each hdc. [56 sts.]
R4-R5: Do not join, but work in rounds. Hdc in each hdc. [56 sts in each row.] This should make roughly one inch of orange.
R6: Blsc in each hdc. [56 sts]
R7: Fpdc in each blsc. This emulates a knit stockinette stitch, from a distance, and creates a wonderfully thick, horizontal ribbing to help thicken up the hat. The horizontal ribs should be on the inside of the hat. [56 sts]
R8-R11: Fpdc in each fpdc. Combined with the previous rows, this should make another inch of orange, making for ~2 inches. This section should take up ~1 oz orange yarn.
In yellow:
Adding in the yellow: Cut off the orange yarn, leaving a tail of about 5 inches, and switch to the yellow instead. This can be done by either tying off the orange and tying in the yellow, adding in the yellow and crocheting over orange, weaving in the ends, whichever you prefer.
R12-R17: Fpdc in each fpdc. [56 sts in each row.] This should make roughly ~2 inches of yellow.
R18: Fpdc in each fpdc. Add a marker every 8 stitches; in the end, you should have 7 markers in the hat.
R19: Fpdc in the next 6 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. Repeat 6 more times, removing the markers as you go. [49 sts]
R20: Fpdc in the next 6 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. *Fpdc in the next 5 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc.* Repeat * 6 more times. [42 sts]
R21: Fpdc in the next 5 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. *Fpdc in the next 4 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc.* Repeat * 6 more times. [35 sts]
R22: Fpdc in the next 4 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. *Fpdc in the next 3 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc.* Repeat * 6 more times. [28 sts]
R23: Fpdc in the next 3 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. *Fpdc in the next 2 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc.* Repeat * 6 more times. [21 sts]
R24: Fpdc in the next 2 fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. *Fpdc in the next fpdc, then decrease an fpdc.* Repeat * 6 more times. [14 sts]
R25: Fpdc in the next fpdc, then decrease an fpdc. Decrease an fpdc 7 more times. [7 sts]
R26: Sc in each fpdc. [7 sts] Cut off the yellow yarn, leaving a tail of about 5 inches, and tie off. Pull the tail inside the hat. This section should take up ~1 oz of yellow yarn.
For the earflaps, in red:
First, determine the width of the ear flaps. Lay the hat flat, folded along the back seam (where the V from first attaching the rows on Row 2). Each half of the hat should be 28 sts wide. Mark the middle (sts 14 and 15), then count seven sts in each direction so you have a strip 14 sts wide (sts 8-21). Do this on both sides. Follow these instructions for one earflap, and then repeat for the other earflap.
R1: Sc in the strip of 14 sts marked out. [14 sts]
R2: Ch 1. Dc in each sc. [14 sts]
R3: Ch 1. Bpdc in each dc. [14 sts] Make certain the horizontal ribbing is on the inside of the hat, not the outside. (If you find you need to fpdc instead of bpdc to keep the horizontal ribbing on the inside, just switch the rest of the instructions.)
R4: Ch 1. Fpdc in each bpdc. [14 sts] Make certain the horizontal ribbing is on the inside of the hat, not the outside. (if you find you need to bpdc instead of fpdc to keep the horizontal ribbing on the inside, just switch the rest of the instructions.)
R5: Rpt R3. [14 sts]
R6: Rpt R4. [14 sts]
R7: Rpt R3. [14 sts]
R8: Ch 1. Decrease an fpdc, fpdc in the next 8 bpdc, decrease an fpdc, fpdc once. [12 sts]
R9: Ch 1. Decrease a bpdc, bpdc in the next 6 fpdc, decrease a bpdc, bpdc once. [10 sts]
R10: Ch 1. Decrease an fpdc, fpdc in the next 4 bpdc, decrease an fpdc, fpdc once. [8 sts]
R11: Ch 1. Decrease a bpdc, bpdc in the next 2 fpdc, decrease a bpdc, bpdc once. [6 sts]
R12: Ch 1. Decrease an fpdc twice, fpdc once. [4 sts]
R13: Ch 1. Decrease a bpdc once, bpdc once. [2 sts]
R14: Ch 1. Fpdc once, tie off and leave the tail dangling. You can add extra tails, or a cord for extra shiny. This section should take up another ~1 oz of red yarn.
Create a pom-pom (one of many instructions) of one or all three colors, and pull the attaching yarn inside the hat, in the same spot you pulled in the yellow yarn. Tie the pompom tie and the yellow yarn tightly together inside the hat and weave in the ends.