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The Man Who Knew Too Much (collection)

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The Man Who Knew Too Much is the twenty-sixth collection by British designer Alexander McQueen, released for the Autumn/Winter 2005 season of his eponymous fashion house. It took inspiration from the fashion of the 1950s and 1960s, as well as the films of Alfred Hitchcock; its namesake is Hitchcock's The Man Who Knew Too Much (1956). The runway show was staged during Paris Fashion Week on 4 March 2005 at the Lycée Carnot, a secondary school in Paris. Forty-eight looks were presented; the first thirty-six were daywear, while the final twelve were eveningwear. The collection's clothing and runway show are considered to have lacked McQueen's signature theatricality. Critical reception at launch and in retrospect have been mixed to positive; disagreements centred around the benefits and drawbacks of McQueen's more commercial turn. It was the debut of the Novak handbag, which was a best-seller for the brand. Critical analysis has examined why McQueen pivoted to a more commercial approach, as well as the influence of film on the collection.

A two-piece outfit consisting of matching short coat and knee-length skirt, both in light green with dark green accent embroidery.
Look 3 from the runway show, presented at Lee Alexander McQueen & Ann Ray: Rendez-Vous (2024)

Background

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British fashion designer Alexander McQueen was known for his imaginative, sometimes controversial designs.[1][2][3] During his nearly twenty-year career, he explored a broad range of ideas and themes, including historicism, romanticism, femininity, sexuality, and death.[1][2][3] McQueen began his career in fashion as an apprentice on Savile Row, which earned him a reputation as an expert tailor.[4][5][6] His fashion shows were known for being theatrical to the point of verging on performance art.[7][8] Sarah Burton, his assistant during much of his career, later said that he "just didn't like doing normal catwalk shows".[9] By the mid-2000s, McQueen had reached a stage of exhaustion with his career and the fashion industry, at one point saying, "I go in, I do my business, do the parties, and leave."[10]

McQueen's personal fixations and interests were a throughline in his career, and he returned to certain ideas and visual motifs repeatedly.[2][11] His collections were historicist, in that he adapted historical designs and narratives, and self-referential, in that he revisited and reworked ideas between collections.[2] As a cinephile, he drew on his favourite films to inspire his collections.[12] He was fond of Alfred Hitchcock, whose film The Man Who Knew Too Much (1956) was one of McQueen's childhood favourites.[13] One of McQueen's earliest collections, The Birds (Spring/Summer 1995), was named for Hitchcock's 1963 film The Birds.[14] Although the tight pencil skirts and wasp-waisted jackets in that collection were a reference to the tightly tailored outfits worn by the film's star, Tippi Hedren, McQueen avoided directly copying her wardrobe.[14][15][16]

Concept and collection

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See caption
Theatrical poster for The Man Who Knew Too Much (1956), for which the collection is named

The Man Who Knew Too Much (Autumn/Winter 2005) is the twenty-sixth collection by McQueen for his eponymous fashion house. It was inspired by the fashion of the 1950s and 1960s, particularly as interpreted by costume designer Edith Head for Alfred Hitchcock thrillers like its namesake.[13][17][18] With jeans, leather, and leopard print, it also drew on the youth culture that emerged in those decades and the fashion associated with the classic rock and roll and outlaw biker subcultures.[19][20][21] McQueen cited his aunt, who had funded his fashion education, as an influence, crediting her for providing an early template for his ideas about sensuality in fashion.[22] Author Judith Watt suggested some inspiration from the Pearly Kings and Queens of London, known for their distinctive suits covered in mother-of-pearl buttons.[23][24]

Unusually for McQueen, the collection was straightforward and conventional.[25][13] The palette was muted, with a focus on taupe, grey, and black, with pops of colour.[26] The designs emphasised the female form in an old-fashioned way, with tailoring and knitwear that hugged the body, rather than relying on cuts which exposed the breasts and buttocks the way his earliest designs had.[19][27] The restrained aesthetic referenced the image of the "Hitchcock blonde", a stereotype of the attractive but romantically aloof women who led Hitchcock's films.[16][28]

The daywear portion of the collection mainly featured tailored tweed suits with pencil skirts, cocktail dresses, and knitwear in sixties mohair and Fair Isle styles, shown with slim-fit trousers and jeans with cuffs. For outerwear, there were trench coats, leather jackets, and fur coats, as well as a range of sweaters and wrap jackets influenced by Peruvian textiles and Navajo weaving.[29] Look 22, a jacket, top, and pencil skirt in wool bouclé and cashmere, is a clear homage to Tippi Hedren's outfit from The Birds, a reference McQueen had deliberately avoided making in the earlier eponymous collection.[30]

The eveningwear portion comprised 1950s-inspired ball gowns, including a red one with a voluminous mermaid skirt that evoked the designs of Charles James, a designer from the period.[13][25][23] The dress which closed the collection was a take on the bejewelled, flesh-toned, and skintight dress worn by actress Marilyn Monroe when she sang "Happy Birthday" to President John F. Kennedy in 1963.[23]

Ensembles were rendered with feminine 1950s details and accessories like sunglasses, pearl jewellery, leather gloves, handbags, seamed stockings, and matching shoes.[13][25][26] The collection featured the first Alexander McQueen handbag, a structured satchel bag with 1950s inspiration. It was called the "Novak" after actress Kim Novak, who was known for her appearance in Hitchcock's 1958 film Vertigo.[13][31]

Runway show

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Interior of a long two-level hall with a balcony wrapping around the upper level and large windows in the roof.
The Hall Eiffel, the central hall of the Lycée Carnot secondary school where the show was held. The runway ran straight down the centre, with the audience seated around it. Some models walked around the upper-level balcony before descending the stairs to the runway.

The runway show was staged during Paris Fashion Week on 4 March 2005 at the Lycée Carnot, a public secondary school, in Paris.[32] The invitation was a poster based on the theatrical poster for Vertigo.[13][16] The soundtrack comprised selections from the 1950s and 1960s, including songs from Johnny Kidd & the Pirates, Alan Vega, Dusty Springfield, Elvis Presley, and Martha and the Vandellas.[13] The venue was cold, so audience members were gifted wool blankets styled like the collection's knitwear.[33]

The show was produced by Gainsbury & Whiting.[32] Joseph Bennett returned for set design.[34] Katy England took care of overall styling, Guido Palau was responsible for hair, and Peter Philips handled make-up.[32]

McQueen's usual theatrical flair was absent from the runway show; his right-hand woman, Sarah Burton, recalled it as "the nearest he came to a standard runway presentation".[9] The unadorned catwalk ran straight down the centre of the school's central hall, with the audience seated around it.[35] The show opened with orange-red overhead lights illuminating the runway. White spotlights flashed one by one on the upper balcony, finally illuminating a pair of doors through which the models entered. They circled the balcony, illuminated by spotlights, and eventually descended stairs at the other end to reach the runway.[33][36] The windows at the rear of the room were backlit in purple.[13] Curator Kate Bethune felt this backdrop was influenced by Hitchcock's Rear Window (1954), in which a man watches his neighbours through their windows.[13]

Forty-eight looks were presented; the first thirty-six were daywear, while the final twelve were eveningwear.[19][25] Models were styled in the mode of the 1950s and 60s. Hair was worn in period-appropriate bouffant styles or backcombed for volume.[37][13][25] Make-up was restrained, mainly consisting of matte nude or red lips and black flicked eyeliner, although some looks had more modern graphic eyeliner above the eyelid. Eyebrows were left natural and the face was modestly powdered.[37][38][25] Model Hannelore Knuts walked with backcombed bleach-blonde hair, red lipstick, and a false beauty mark, recalling the iconic style of Marilyn Monroe.[26] Julia Stegner wore tousled hair in the manner of actress Brigitte Bardot.[13]

After the final look, the lights went down briefly, before coming back up to show the models taking their final turn, with two in evening gowns posing on the stairs to the back of the runway.[39] There was no theatrical finale.[40][39] McQueen left the show without greeting the attendees.[23]

Reception

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A woman wearing a long coat over her shoulders, a lacy bustier, a leather belt, a satin knee-length skirt, and high-heeled strappy sandals; all in various shades of brown. Her hair is platinum blonde, short, and curled. Her lips are bright red, and she wears a fake beauty mark on her cheek.
Hannelore Knuts wearing Look 16, styled to resemble 1960s actress Marilyn Monroe

Critical reception for The Man Who Knew Too Much was mostly positive, with some recurring criticisms. A few critics considered it one of the best of the season.[41][42] Despite the lack of McQueen's usual theatrics, many reviewers were pleased with the 1950s-inspired tailored silhouettes and glamourous evening wear.[46] McQueen earned praise for successfully updating classic Hitchcock-esque styles with modern details, avoiding an overly referential approach.[43][47] Maggie Alderson of The Sydney Morning Herald appreciated the combination of "atmospheric showmanship" with sharp and sensual designs.[48] The staff writer for Women's Wear Daily was pleased that the collection catered to a broad range of women, from "grand dame to ingenue, from party girl to beatnik".[49] Booth Moore, writing for the Los Angeles Times, disagreed, feeling McQueen was "trying to be all things to all women".[50] Although she admired the skilled tailoring, The Wall Street Journal fashion editor Robin Givhan felt the tightly tailored clothes were too restrictive to be worth the trouble of wearing.[51]

Many critics complained that McQueen had become too safe and commercial.[13][40] Sarah Mower of Vogue and Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune were critical of his reliance on ideas he had successfully explored before.[19][43] Mower thought the runway show was repetitive and cynical, calling it "a merchandise run-through of dubious taste".[19] Menkes appreciated the soft knits as a contrast to the stiff tailoring, but felt these items were an excessively commercial addition to a collection that was already made to be very marketable.[43] Moore thought at least some of these items should have been cut.[50] Some complained that McQueen's normally forceful personality had been absent from the designs.[44][52][53] Others disagreed with the consensus, feeling the lack of theatrics put the focus back on the clothes.[20][49] Susie Rushton at The Independent called McQueen's decision to send out glamorous evening gowns in lieu of a theatrical ending a "commercially savvy move".[20]

Despite the somewhat negative reviews, buyers and magazine editors were excited about the collection.[54][55] It was reportedly a strong seller on the retail market upon reaching stores at the beginning of the Fall/Winter 2005 season.[13][40] McQueen defended his more commercial approach as the result of greater confidence in his designs: "You can hide so much more behind theatrics, and I don't need to do that anymore."[55]

The mixed reception persists in retrospect. In her 2012 biography of McQueen, Judith Watt wrote that Look 39, a red ball gown, was "like a Charles James [design] but not as good".[23] She felt that McQueen's immediate departure after the show was an indication that he was under great stress at the time.[23] In her 2015 book Gods and Kings, Dana Thomas called it a "soulless exercise" indicative of McQueen's late-career malaise, and mentioned it only to opine that it was a "far more literal" interpretation of Hitchcock than The Birds had been.[10] Andrew Wilson, in his 2015 biography of McQueen Blood Beneath the Skin, called it "elegant", but otherwise spent little time on it.[17]

Some authors have been more positive about the collection in hindsight. Katherine Gleason described it as "contemporary vision of wearable glamour".[36] Curator Claire Wilcox found the collection "upbeat and commercial", and felt that it showcased McQueen's versatility in genre.[25] Judith Watt and Kate Bethune both noted the irony that McQueen, having taken years of criticism for relying too heavily on theatrics at the risk of overshadowing the clothing, had been criticised for producing a low-key collection focused solely on the designs.[13][23]

Analysis

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See caption
Theatrical poster for Vertigo (1958), upon which the show's invitation was based

Authors have offered a number of rationales for the collection's lack of theatrics. Watt suggested that McQueen may have felt pressured to rely on safe, saleable designs in order to satisfy the management at Gucci, which owned 51 per cent of the McQueen label.[23][56] She also speculated that the straightforward design of the Fair Isle sweaters may have been intended as a lead-in for McQ, the brand's upcoming diffusion line.[23] Gleason suggested the rising economic influence of teens may have prompted McQueen to include youth-friendly garments like patterned sweaters and cropped jeans.[26]

Film theorist Alistair O'Neill focused on the collection as it related to Hitchcock. McQueen referenced several of the director's films throughout his career, exploring what O'Neill called "representations of femininity and how they are challenged through transformation scenes".[57] O'Neill thought the collection "distilled the Hitchcock blonde" across many looks, rewarding repeat viewing in a manner akin to film.[16] He considered McQueen's interpretation of Hedren's ensemble to be "more faithful" to the costume designer's original sketch than what appeared in the film, labelling it "a doppelgänger".[16]

In an essay discussing fashion and mental health, Isabel Formica Jakob described the collection as "classical", explaining that in her opinion this meant something that was timeless and antithetical to the frenetic, wasteful fashion industry.[58]

Legacy

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The Novak bag became a trendy accessory for celebrities. As the brand's primary handbag, it was reissued in various sizes, colours, and fabrics over several years.[59][26]

Several looks from The Man Who Knew Too Much have been photographed for editorials in Vogue. Cate Blanchett appeared in the red ball gown from Look 39 for an editorial by Regan Cameron.[60] Patrick Demarchelier photographed Look 38, a black floor-length dress with white tulle underskirt.[61] Look 48 featured in a shoot by Carter Smith, where it was accessorised with a cropped tweed jacket.[62] Paolo Roversi photographed actress Charlotte Rampling in an editorial McQueen styled for the December 2005 issue of British Vogue. The shoot was inspired by London organised crime in the 1960s and featured multiple looks including Look 8, a black minidress with lace back, and Look 48, the beaded finale dress.[62][63]

Although the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition was intended to cover McQueen's entire career, no items from the collection appeared in the original staging.[64] Sarah Jessica Parker, a friend of McQueen's, wore Look 48 for the exhibition's opening.[65]

The Los Angeles County Museum of Art owns two pairs of shoes attributed to the collection, which appeared in the museum's 2022 exhibition Lee Alexander McQueen: Mind, Mythos, Muse.[66] The National Gallery of Victoria owns a pair of knitted sock boots from The Man Who Knew Too Much.[67]

Trino Verkade, McQueen's first employee, auctioned her archive in 2014, including four items from The Man Who Knew Too Much.[68][69] One silver cocktail dress, Look 43 on the runway, went for £2,200.[70] McQueen's friend Alice Smith auctioned a collection of McQueen memorabilia in 2020; an invitation from The Man Who Knew Too Much sold for $2,440.[71] When fashion collector Jennifer Zuiker auctioned her McQueen collection in 2020, a copy of Look 3, a sage vest suit with hunter green accents, sold for $3,438.[72][73]

References

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  1. 1 2 Bolton 2011, pp. 13–14.
  2. 1 2 3 4 "Alexander McQueen – an introduction". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 25 June 2024.
  3. 1 2 Mora & Berry 2022, pp. 126, 128, 132.
  4. ↑ Doig, Stephen (30 January 2023). "How Alexander McQueen changed the world of fashion – by the people who knew him best". The Daily Telegraph. Archived from the original on 30 January 2023.
  5. ↑ Carwell, Nick (26 May 2016). "Savile Row's best tailors: Alexander McQueen". GQ. Archived from the original on 9 May 2021. Retrieved 31 March 2021.
  6. ↑ Vaidyanathan, Rajini (12 February 2010). "Six ways Alexander McQueen changed fashion". BBC Magazine. Archived from the original on 22 February 2010. Retrieved 6 May 2022.
  7. ↑ Gleason 2012, p. 10.
  8. ↑ Fairer & Wilcox 2016, p. 13.
  9. 1 2 Bolton 2011, p. 227.
  10. 1 2 Thomas 2015, p. 333.
  11. ↑ Watt 2012, p. 148.
  12. ↑ Manning, Emily (21 January 2016). "An Alexander McQueen biopic is in the works". i-D. Archived from the original on 2 April 2023. Retrieved 1 April 2023.
  13. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Bethune 2015, p. 316.
  14. 1 2 Callahan 2014, p. 103.
  15. ↑ Thomas 2015, p. 123.
  16. 1 2 3 4 5 O'Neill 2015, p. 274.
  17. 1 2 Wilson 2015, p. 298.
  18. ↑ Krpan 2022, pp. 180–181.
  19. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Mower, Sarah (4 March 2005). "Alexander McQueen Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear Collection". Vogue. Retrieved 4 December 2024.
  20. 1 2 3 4 Rushton, Susie (5 March 2005). "McQueen replaces pyrotechnics with razor-sharp display". The Independent. Retrieved 8 May 2026.
  21. ↑ Gleason 2012, pp. 135, 137.
  22. ↑ Trebay, Guy (5 March 2005). "A foie gras attack, fashion on ice and my aunt the muse". The New York Times. p. 6. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  23. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Watt 2012, p. 224.
  24. ↑ Howard, Ellie. "The pearly kings and queens: London's 'other' royal family". BBC Travel. Archived from the original on 2023-04-16. Retrieved 2023-04-25.
  25. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Fairer & Wilcox 2016, p. 200.
  26. 1 2 3 4 5 Gleason 2012, p. 137.
  27. ↑ Young & Martin 2017, p. 146.
  28. ↑ Cohan 1997, p. 12.
  29. ↑ Bethune 2015, p. 316; Watt 2012, p. 224; Gleason 2012, p. 135; Webb 2022, pp. 34–35.
  30. ↑ O'Neill 2015, pp. 274–276.
  31. ↑ Botkier 2017, pp. 27–28.
  32. 1 2 3 Fairer & Wilcox 2016, p. 344.
  33. 1 2 Webb 2022, pp. 34–35.
  34. ↑ "Interview: Joseph Bennett on Lee McQueen". SHOWstudio. 16 March 2015. Retrieved 14 February 2024.
  35. ↑ Alexander McQueen 2012, 00:12.
  36. 1 2 Gleason 2012, p. 135.
  37. 1 2 McDonald, Charles Daniel. "War paint". Forç Magazine. Retrieved 21 May 2025.
  38. ↑ Frankel, Susannah (17 March 2005). "The rouge master". The Independent. p. 112. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  39. 1 2 Alexander McQueen 2012, 12:26.
  40. 1 2 3 Gleason 2012, p. 138.
  41. ↑ McQuillan, Deirdre (7 March 2005). "New twists add vigour to traditional shapes". Irish Times. p. 3. Retrieved 13 March 2026.
  42. ↑ Cartner-Morley, Jess (11 March 2005). "The body within". The Guardian. pp. G7. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  43. 1 2 3 4 Menkes, Suzy (7 March 2005). "Siren call of the silver screen". International Herald Tribune. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  44. 1 2 Horyn, Cathy (7 March 2005). "In Paris, tweed tangles with tulle". The New York Times. Retrieved 13 March 2026.
  45. ↑ Craik, Laura (7 March 2005). "The shape of the future". Evening Standard. pp. A28. Retrieved 9 May 2026.
  46. ↑ [19][20][43][44][45]
  47. ↑ Ings-Chambers, Edwina (7 March 2005). "Revisiting the past to define the present". Financial Times. p. 16. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  48. ↑ Alderson, Maggie (7 March 2005). "McQueen sexes up straight-laced gathering". Sydney Morning Herald. p. 6. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  49. 1 2 "Luxe layering, fab tailoring and angst-y chic". Women's Wear Daily. Vol. 189, no. 47. 7 March 2005. p. 3. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  50. 1 2 Moore, Booth (8 March 2005). "Fall 2005 collections". Los Angeles Times. pp. E1. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  51. ↑ Givhan, Robin (10 March 2005). "Fashionistas exercise marketing muscles". The Wall Street Journal. pp. A5. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  52. ↑ Harris, Constance (13 March 2005). "The winds of change blow hot in new era". Sunday Independent. pp. Living 9. Retrieved 8 March 2026.
  53. ↑ Alexander, Hilary (5 March 2005). "Lagerfeld reflects on tweed and dinky bags for the boys". The Daily Telegraph. p. 5. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  54. ↑ "Paris message: It's all about shape". Women's Wear Daily. Vol. 189, no. 47. 7 March 2005. p. 3. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
  55. 1 2 Cartner-Morley, Jess (19 September 2005). "Boy done good". The Guardian. Retrieved 7 December 2024.
  56. ↑ "Obituary: Fashion king Alexander McQueen". BBC. 11 February 2010. Archived from the original on 2 September 2017. Retrieved 11 February 2010.
  57. ↑ O'Neill 2015, p. 273.
  58. ↑ Jakob, Isabel Formica (18 November 2021). "On Mental Health, Lee Alexander McQueen, and Slow Fashion". The Fashion Studies Journal (9).
  59. ↑ Knox 2010, p. 66.
  60. ↑ Fox 2012, pp. 93–94, 159.
  61. ↑ Fox 2012, pp. 23–24, 159.
  62. 1 2 Fox 2012, pp. 99–102, 159.
  63. ↑ "From the archive: When Alexander McQueen styled Charlotte Rampling as a '60s siren For Vogue's "Superwomen" issue". British Vogue. 11 February 2025. Retrieved 5 May 2026.
  64. ↑ Bolton 2011, pp. 232–235.
  65. ↑ Craik, Laura (3 May 2011). "The McQueens of New York". Evening Standard. p. 3. Retrieved 6 May 2026.
  66. ↑ Esguerra & Hansen 2022, pp. 170–171.
  67. ↑ "Knitted sock boots". National Gallery of Victoria. Retrieved 19 December 2024.
  68. ↑ Bromley, Joe (11 June 2024). "'I spent my life helping Alexander McQueen. Now I'm selling my rare archive'". Evening Standard. Retrieved 8 December 2024.
  69. ↑ "Passion for Fashion: the Trino Verkade Collection". Kerry Taylor Auctions. 11 June 2024. Retrieved 8 December 2024.
  70. ↑ "Lot 96 – An Alexander McQueen silver cocktail dress, The Man Who Knew Too Much, Autumn-Winter 2005-06". Kerry Taylor Auctions. 11 June 2024. Retrieved 8 December 2024.
  71. ↑ "Alexander McQueen: The Man Who Knew Too Much invitation". RR Auction. 15 September 2021. Retrieved 8 December 2024.
  72. ↑ Yotka, Steff (25 August 2020). "A treasure trove of Alexander McQueen pieces will go up for auction this September". Vogue. Archived from the original on 11 August 2022. Retrieved 13 September 2022.
  73. ↑ "Velvet vest suit ensemble, The Man Who Knew Too Much, Autumn-Winter 2005". Doyle New York. Retrieved 5 May 2025.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)

Bibliography

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