Jay Rayner | Financial Times

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Jay Rayner

Restaurant Critic and Feature Writer

Jay Rayner joined the Financial Times in 2025. He has covered everything from crime and politics to the arts and social affairs but for more than 25 years has been best known as a restaurant critic for the Observer, a role he continues for the FT. He has published over a dozen books and is the host of BBC Radio 4' Kitchen Cabinet. He regularly performs live, both as a jazz pianist and in one-man shows, details of which can be found on his website jayrayner.co.uk.
Follow Jay on Instagram and BlueSky​
Email Jay Rayner
  • May 30 2026
    Restaurants
    ‘It aims at the delicious and restorative, then misses that target’ — Jay Rayner reviews Holy Carrot, London
    Spitalfields’ latest vegetarian venue has a worthy premise, good-looking menu and a notable chef — and yet it’s falling flat
    Jay Rayner
    2 hours ago
    Illustration of a small carrot character with a halo sitting atop a large artichoke against a blue background.
  • May 30 2026
    Food & Drink
    FT Magazine. Why the best British food is actually French
    French food is back in fashion — but was it ever really out?
    2 hours ago
    The image shows a metal dish of snails, served on a stack of two white plates on a red table, being revealed by a white-gloved hand lifting a cloche, and flanked by half a baguette served with a pot of butter and a mug of strong tea. The condiments on the table are typical of an English greasy spoon caff and include a shaker of Sarson’s malt vinegar, a bottle of HP Sauce, and a jar of Colman’s mustard
  • May 23 2026
    Restaurants
    ‘I really should return for the full, big-ticket experience’ — Jay Rayner reviews The Cocochine, London
    Larry Jayasekara’s accomplished cooking and prix fixe lunch offer Mayfair diners excellent return on investment
    Jay Rayner
    Detailed illustration of flowers, a bee and shellfish arranged against a bright blue background.
  • May 16 2026
    Restaurants
    Colmado Wilmot: Brilliant, queue-free dining in Barcelona — restaurant review
    An ex-El Bulli chef has gone back to basics, and the results are magical
    Jay Rayner
    Illustration of blue pasta topped with small fish and red chillies on a plate, with snails and flowers in the background.
  • May 9 2026
    Restaurants
    Romano’s and Simpson’s-in-the-Strand: A legendary building restored to its prime
    Rejoice! Jeremy King has brought an old-fashioned (in the best way) destination back to life
    Jay Rayner
    Stylised illustration of a woman in profile wearing a hat piled with breakfast foods including bacon, sausages, eggs, tomatoes and cucumbers.
  • May 2 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. Sentosa, London: An essential Singapore chilli crab pilgrimage — restaurant review
     Eat crab. Get messy. Don’t think about the dry cleaning bill
    Jay Rayner
    Illustration of a large red lobster with a blue hand reaching over it.
  • April 25 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. Kallos, Salford: No wonder the UK is going crazy for Greek food — restaurant review
    Even a grey day feels sunny when you’ve got a carafe of wine, herby dips and proper feta
    Jay Rayner
    Still-life illustration of a Portuguese wine bottle beside an open tin of sardines, a lemon wedge and a white cat in the background
  • April 18 2026
    Restaurants
    Cometa, Fitzrovia: Mexican delights, and some of London’s best fried chicken — restaurant review
    Chef residency restaurant Carousel has made a smart choice for its first permanent space
    Jay Rayner
    A surreal collage of oversized flowers, sea creatures and people gathered around a large open-mouthed fish.
  • April 11 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. Other, Bristol: Is this the best city in the UK for indie restaurants? — review
    This small Bedminster restaurant is joyful, inventive and undeniably cool
    Surreal illustration combining vegetables, a fish and a seated figure against a yellow background.
  • April 4 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. Osteria Vibrato, London: Pasta, a piano and a note of magic — restaurant review
    It’ll make you nostalgic for a Soho you never knew
    Jay Rayner
    Illustration of a chef in formal dress preparing lobster and pasta with musical notes swirling around
  • March 28 2026
    Life & Arts
    Would you like some intrusive curiosity with that?
    Waiters who ask about my day may mean well. That doesn’t mean I have to answer them
    Jay Rayner
  • March 28 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. Aces Foodcraft, London: Engrossing, exciting and unashamedly inventive — restaurant review
    Alex Craciun’s Japanese-inspired Fitzrovia restaurant has some weird ideas — and pulls them off brilliantly
    Jay Rayner
    Colourful illustration of mermaids and fish intertwined with flowers against a blue background.
  • March 21 2026
    The everyday miracle of eggs
    FT Magazine. Can Jemima Kelly recreate Martha Stewart’s mythic midnight dinner party? 
    Thirty guests. 111 eggs. A one-bed flat. A fearless host attempts the impossible omelette supper of her dreams
  • March 21 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High, London: £776 of meh — review
    The sweary chef thinks critics have got it in for him, but it’s his restaurant that is the problem
    Jay Rayner
    A surreal illustration of a chef wearing a white jacket, blue trousers and chef’s toque falling from a tall skyscraper. Several vintage-style biplanes made of fountain pens fly around him, some shooting or trailing black ink splatters that streak across the bright blue sky
  • March 14 2026
    Restaurants
    The Noma affair will leave a very nasty taste in the mouth
    High-end restaurants as a force for moral good was an idea long lacking in self-awareness
    Jay Rayner
    Rene Redzepi stands smiling with his arms crossed, wearing a blue shirt and apron in front of wooden shelves.
  • February 21 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. The Porter’s Table, London: A brand extension too far for Guinness — restaurant review 
    The grill restaurant in Covent Garden’s new brewery-meets-merch shop has all the charm of a new-build hotel 
    Jay Rayner
    A colourful illustration of a toucan perched among slices of meat and citrus
  • February 14 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. Noodle soup so good it should come on prescription — Jay Rayner reviews Sông Quê Phở in Shoreditch
    One of London’s favourite Vietnamese cafés has opened a grown-up noodle bar
    An illustration of a woman holding a bowl filled with vegetables and noodles
  • February 7 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. ‘I doubt I will eat better than I did here’ — Jay Rayner reviews Mezzogiorno, Westminster
    Francesco Mazzei’s new restaurant gives Italian comfort food the grand hotel treatment
    Jay Rayner
    Abstract illustration of mannequin-like figures standing beneath classical pillars, surrounded by food, drink and patterned vessels in warm yellow and orange tones.
  • January 31 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. ‘The late-night hideaway London needs’ — Jay Rayner reviews Dover St Counter in Mayfair
    A vibey little bistro from former Soho House exec Martin Kuczmarski
    Jay Rayner
    An abstract illustration shows figures holding wine glasses in a softly lit bar setting
  • January 24 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. The pub that refused to die — Jay Rayner reviews The Highland Laddie in Leeds
    This old boozer, ringed by newbuilds, exceeds all expectations — and it’s got a mustard menu
    Jay Rayner
    Surreal illustration combining seafood, animals and drink in a dense, decorative composition
  • January 17 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. ‘Great highs and thudding lows’ — Jay Rayner reviews Poon’s, the Strand
    This kind of Chinese restaurant without stir fries feels like a joke without a punchline
    Colourful cartoonish illustration depicting an aerial view of someone eating a bowl of noodles from a patterned-china bowl: both the left and right hands are holding pairs of chopsticks, suggesting that the diner is eating quickly and voraciously.
  • January 10 2026
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. A journey through the multiverse of Caribbean cooking — Jay Rayner reviews two new openings in south London 
    South London restaurants 2210 by NattyCanCook and RapChar are serving food to excite and intrigue
    Jay Rayner
    Illustrated still life featuring bananas, sliced fruit, seafood and tropical birds on a vivid patterned background
  • January 3 2026
    Food & Drink
    FT Magazine. Salad bars have changed. Are they better for it?
    Jay Rayner goes for a restorative stroll down Piccadilly and is ambushed by temptation
    The image shows a variety of salads including varied ingredients such as roasted vegetables, pioneered by Yotam Ottolenghi.
  • December 27 2025
    Restaurants
    FT Magazine. Noodles worth getting weird about — Jay Rayner reviews Maneki Ramen, Birmingham
    A restaurant that takes the essentials seriously — and remembers the desserts
    Jay Rayner
    Illustration of two babies depicted within a bowl of spaghetti
  • December 27 2025
    The joy of January — a food & drink special
    FT Magazine. Is any meal worth three days’ cooking?
    Jay Rayner goes all in with a glorious menu of multi-day dishes, including his cassoulet recipe
    A rustic spread of dishes including a bowl of cassoulet, a partially sliced Basque cheesecake, stewed fruit, and a plate with bread and raw vegetables.
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