Naples.

Wednesday, November 5, 2025. Above, the bedroom of our apartment.
We actually slept well, and for nearly nine hours, according to my new $39 Chinese smartwatch, which also keeps track of body temperature, heart rate, blood pressure, blood oxygen, steps, calories, and other things I haven’t explored, as well as being waterproof, which is quite a bit more than my original FitBit, now defunct.
Spent most of the day wandering through the narrow streets of the old part of Naples. First to the market, where we bought a soft chocolate-laced bread, a hard bread with nuts, and something akin to pizza but not really – delicious and flaky, with the tomato inside. Then clementines, plums, big white grapes, and beautiful small tomatoes on the vine. The grocer, a small, wiry man with dark eyes behind heavy black glasses, watched me like a hawk and when I reached for a branch of tomatoes immediately said, “No touch, madam!” I gestured apologetically, smiled, and pointed, and he put whatever we chose into bags; OK, I had learned the rules. In another, friendlier shop, where we bought excellent prosciutto and some marinated eggplant, the proprietor stood, nearly hidden, behind the refrigerated display of cheeses and cold cuts while a young man on the floor of the shop interacted with the customers. He spoke some English, and wanted to talk to us; he described each item and then, once we’d made our decision, relayed the information to the owner, who fulfilled the order and carefully wrapped each item in paper.


The cloister and garden of Chiesa di Santa Chiara (The Church of Saint Clare).
After eating at the apartment we went to the Chiesa di Santa Chiara and spent a couple of hours in their beautiful cloister garden with its majolica columns and benches, orange trees and cypresses, and their museum with its Roman and medieval antiquities, photographs of the terrible destruction during WWII, and their many reliquaries and images of saints.

At the museum of the Chiesa di Santa Chiara, a Renaissance polychromed wooden reliquary of St. Thecla. Described in a book of the apocrypha, The Acts of Paul and Thecla, she was a devoted follower of St. Paul who was miraculously saved from the executioner’s fire by a sudden storm, and also miraculously escaped the wild beasts sent to devour her in a gladiatorial stadium. As legend has it, she lived out her life in Maaloula, Syria, where the rocks closed the entrance to her cave when assailants tried to capture her. The Convent of St. Thecla in Maaloula, built near her supposed tomb, is still active today.
Through the rest of the afternoon, we walked through the narrow old streets filled with shops selling clothing, souvenirs, religious objects, leather goods, cheeses and sausages, and the intricate figures needed for Neapolitan nativity scenes — both the characters, angels and animals of the bible story and the ordinary Italians who also populate these elaborate, iconic assemblages (more on these later.) J. took pictures in the busy, winding, darkening streets. I took a detour into a clothing shop with beautiful but relatively inexpensive Italian-designed clothing, and, uncharacteristically, tried on a few things. The store’s credit card machine wasn’t working and I didn’t have enough euros to pay in cash, so they put aside a blouse for me until later, but I had doubts; I’ve learned that buying things that seem wonderful when traveling doesn’t always mean they’re going to work in one’s daily life back home.
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The late soccer hero Maradona is everywhere; he’s been made into a Neapolitan saint/martyr. We saw an enormous mural of him in a pope’s mitre; he’s on posters and flags; Maradona as Jesus on refrigerator magnets; Maradona as St. Sebastian, shot with arrows, Saint Maradona with a halo. Bars offer Aperol Spritzes, which are orange, and Maradona Spritzes, which are blue like the team’s jerseys. When he arrived to play for Napoli in 1984, a local newspaper wrote that despite the lack of a “mayor, houses, schools, buses, employment and sanitation, none of this matters because we have Maradona”.

This window display in a religious shop has Maradona images along with baby Jesus figurines (both white and black), cherubs, candles, rosaries, and Jubilee Year souvenirs reading Peregrinantes in Spem: Pilgrims in Hope.
Last night Naples was playing a German team. Our landlord told us the polizia had contacted all the short-term rental agents to ask if their booked guests were German, because last year they trashed the city.

Today, near the big Maradona mural, a parade of mourners carrying pink and blue balloons followed a hearse to a local church. All the passers-by crossed themselves when the hearse went by. When it was parked and the back door opened, four pallbearers pulled a small coffin out and carried it easily into the church: a young child, which explained the sad procession with balloons.
We ended up eating at Pizza Michele and then walking back to our apartment with a stop at a grocery store for the staples we couldn’t find at the market: butter, milk, eggs, yogurt, cereal.

Tonight I painted, finishing the sketch of Via Toledo at night from last evening and doing another of our fruit bowl. Unlike the sketchbook pages in Mexico City last March, which were mostly very detailed, I’m trying to do looser sketches and watercolors that create an impression and memory of things but are less literal. I have almost no energy right now for either drawing or writing. When I said I wasn’t sure why, J. said it was because I’m completely drained. Which is true. But it’s more than that; not only do I not have much energy for it, I feel like whatever I do is going to be unsatisfying and uninspired — which is pretty much a guarantee that it will be. So I will do a bit, but try not not to be too demanding of myself.
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A close friend wrote that if he were a doctor, the medicine he’d prescribe for us over the next week would be a city like Naples, teeming with life – which it is. It’s full of life, but death is never far away. The air is terrible from the diesel fumes and the smoking pedestrians and cafe-sitters; we can’t believe how many people are smoking and vaping. J. remarked that it didn’t seem like most people here “were planning to be in it for the long haul.” Maybe not. It would be a hard city to survive in through a long life. But the older women in the last night’s trattoria were doing all right: clearly they were good friends, and well-known to the waiter, who took very good care of them, even cutting up a pizza into small pieces for one of the women, at her request, leaning over and smiling at her, to make sure he’d done what she wanted.
Tomorrow we’re planning to go to Pompeii.
—to be continued




























